Help on L Head Engine Rebuild |
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WI Willys 48
Member Joined: 18 Mar. 2008 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 22 |
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Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 2:42am |
First time rebuild. I have a 48 with a cracked block. I found a 46 with an L head, original engine. It has sat for a while and is locked up, but did run when parked 5 years ago. Oil is full (not discolored), coolant was half full and looked ok. Looking for some basic does and don't and what to look for to start this project out. I did purchase the CJ Rebuilders Guide and Mechanics Manual. Any help or other resources would be appreciated.
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WI 48 WIllys
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Willyman
Member Joined: 14 Feb. 2008 Location: Santaquin UT Status: Offline Points: 67 |
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I too am pretty new to this, i got into it from my family that had grown up with jeeps their whole life. I have a 47 2A, that had a hole in the block. one good book i have found is "Jeep CJ Rebuilders Manual" by Moses Ludel. he also wrote the "Jeep owners Bible" that i dont have yet. I have found that this page is also a really good resource.
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If I am going to hell, I am going in a willys.
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samcj2a
Member Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 21 Oct. 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Status: Offline Points: 8549 |
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Welcome to the group.
I can't tell for sure if you have one manual or two. If you are describing a separate Mechanics Manual ( a Willys reprint), that is good. If you do not have the reprint of the Willys manual, I would not rely entirely on books by Moses Ludel. His examples are framed mostly around a CJ5 with an occasional reference to, or picture of, the 2A. It may lead you to believe that if he does not mention the 2A, then whatever he is describing applies to both his CJ5 and everything else. That is just not the case. You will be better served with a Willys manual to go with the Ludel book. FWIW, I have both of Ludel's books and never use them. If I were rebuilding and modifying a CJ5, I would feel differently, but that is not the case.
Also, where is the '48 block cracked? If it is the very common external crack under the distributor, it can be easily repaired.
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WI Willys 48
Member Joined: 18 Mar. 2008 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 22 |
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Thanks for the reply. I have the Ludel Manual 46-71? I agree it looks great for working on a CJ5. I did purchase the reprint and it has a lot of good information that should help. The current block has the crack starting at the top of the second cylinder wall for about 1 1/2 inches and runs over the top of the block for about another 3/4 inch. I was told this was non-repairable by the Nothstar Willys. He said the best bet was to start with a new block. The current block does have a small crack (apparently by the looks) below the distributor-I can see where coolant has leaked some. What are you thoughts and what's the best fix on the new block as well as how should I determine how much to bore out the new block once pulled and cleaned?
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WI 48 WIllys
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lowenuf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 29 Aug. 2006 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 9119 |
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as for the crack below the distributor, mine had 2 separate long cracks in that area, both were prepped, and welded shut using a DC stick welder, and nickle rod....on the issue of your cylinder crack, welding will not repair that, but, any good machine shop can bore it out, and re-sleeve it, costly, but can be done....
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45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47 45 #10163 ACM #188 57 CJ5 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick |
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samcj2a
Member Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 21 Oct. 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Status: Offline Points: 8549 |
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I'm assuming the "current block" and "new block" above are the same block as opposed to the one that is more severely cracked that Northstar Willys suggested be replaced.
Your best bet is to take the new block to a the machine shop that would bore it and have them measure the cylinders to determine how much, if any, boring is needed. I think that it is possible to get up to .060 inch oversize pistons. If more than that is needed, you will need to have the cyclinder sleeved.
There is another very simple fix that can be used to stop the coolant seeping out of the little crack below the distributor. Clean it and slather on a few coats of fibreglas resin! It worked for me back in the day. The resin cures but remains flexible enough to deall with the small bit if expansion and contraction that causes those cracks to open up and seep collant when the engine warms up. In your case, with the engine already out and being machined anyway, I think it makes more sense to use the cast iron welding technique that low described. I just couldn't resist mentioning that unorthodox fix 'cause it is so painless.
Keep us posted on the progress.
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rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13563 |
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Along the same lines as Sam's suggestion JB Weld is a great product for this particular application too and is cheap......I agree though, if it is out might as well weld it.
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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X007925
Member Joined: 15 Aug. 2005 Location: Lavallette NJ Status: Offline Points: 167 |
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I second Roc's recomendation on JB Weld. I used it to fix a hole in my block on the roof of the intake port. Still holding strong after three years.....
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Rich
47 sn 140278 on road 47 junker w/f-head sn 119281 48 project sn 210391 |
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Jus*Jack
Member Joined: 15 Mar. 2007 Location: so. Georgia Status: Offline Points: 1841 |
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Ok, I've said this so often, that all of the "regulars" around here must surely think that I'm a "shill" of some sort for either Ron Fistzpatrick or John Barton <g>, but...
Go HERE and read (and download, if you can) each of the four different "stickies" (near the top of the listing of threads) entitled "Rebuilding the Jeep Engine, Part (1-4)"...That will provide you with more info on the actual work involved than you'll find anyplace else, IMHO. I too, have Ludel's books...they sit on my bookshelf, gathering dust. And WELCOME!!!! |
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Seeya!
<Jack> '48 CJ2A 197207 "Junebug" '48 CJ2A 191237 "Turquoise" |
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bkreutz
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 17 Oct. 2006 Location: Fruitland Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7037 |
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Naw Jack, to be considered a "shill" (how'd you pick up that word in Georgia?), you would have to be promoting something bad, or trying to drive the price up. I don't think either apply in this case. Only thing that puts me off sometimes about the "G" is the tone of the discussions when they start arguing about the correct length of a cotter pin or something like that.
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Jus*Jack
Member Joined: 15 Mar. 2007 Location: so. Georgia Status: Offline Points: 1841 |
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Hehe...I know what you mean about "the G", Gale. there's a wealth of good info over there, along with some gigantic egos! This is one of the things that fascinates, and delights me about this forum...there just don't seem to be any egos on the line around here. Sure, we have the occasional disagreement over what is/was "correct", or whether it's better to try for an absolutely correct restoration, or to build up a FUN Jeep, and devil take the hindmost! <g> But I'd bet that WE, as a group, probably enjoy our Jeeps more than those guys over there...at least the ones who are most vocal, and I'm sure glad!
However, I go over there from time to time, and read through some of the posts, and it's things like John Barton's tutorial that makes that site have such value to me. I've just never seen anybody else with the ability that he seems to have in "holding your hand", while you're to be picking up a wrench (and he'll probably tell you what size! <g>) And best of all, the price is right! <g> |
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Seeya!
<Jack> '48 CJ2A 197207 "Junebug" '48 CJ2A 191237 "Turquoise" |
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GaryArf
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 21 July 2005 Location: Baxter MN Status: Offline Points: 3905 |
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I've gone over a number of blocks in the past 9 months and they ALL seem to have their "issues" I've had good luck with the JB weld fix but if possable it would be better to weld it. Any cracked block can be fixed but will need to be heated up untill red hot slowly and welded then cooled slowly over a couple days. There is an outfit in Chicago that will do this and machine it as well...$$$$$$ This is for the guys that REALLY need their original block.
As far as the "g503" goes that sight is a great resorce and more "mature" as far as how long it's been out there, and yes there are some egos and intolerance as well. I think that we on the 2A Page have set a high standard to promote originality in our Jeeps that doesn't leave a highbrow, nose-up feel...At least I hope that isn't the feeling that newbies get. If this site didn't try to get to the heart of the original 2A what would be the point?
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CJ2A #10021 #34692 #58500
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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THere is also a method that pins block cracks shut by inserting overlapping tapered threaded pins into the crack. Each pin locks the previous one, and no welding damage like warpage, heat hardening, etc happens. They can do some amazing work, and the website for the company that sells the system shows some incredible fixes on trashed cast parts. i think it is Lock-rite but I'm not sure. There should be links to them over on the Gee, if you do a search for pinning cracked blocks.
By the way, John Barton is definitely one of us.. I bought a project GPW from him a long while ago, and got to meet him in person. He's a heck of a nice guy, and he knows his jeeps. So if you ever get a chance to meet him at Gilbert or the NY shows, tell him how much we appreciate that engine guide over on the G-503 site. He's usually the one selling gennie WWII axes and tools.
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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WI Willys 48
Member Joined: 18 Mar. 2008 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 22 |
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Hey I really appreciate all the replys back on "the block". We will be pulling the good block out of the 46 parts jeepth is weekend. Will keep posted.
Thanks Again for the replies from a past VW Head.
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WI 48 WIllys
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