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Help on L Head Engine Rebuild

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WI Willys 48 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WI Willys 48 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Help on L Head Engine Rebuild
    Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 2:42am
First time rebuild. I have a 48 with a cracked block.  I found a 46 with an L head, original engine.  It has sat for a while and is locked up, but did run when parked 5 years ago.  Oil is full (not discolored), coolant was half full and looked ok.  Looking for some basic does and don't and what to look for to start this project out.  I did purchase the CJ Rebuilders Guide and Mechanics Manual.  Any help or other resources would be appreciated.
 
Thanks-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willyman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 3:01am
I too am pretty new to this, i got into it from my family that had grown up with jeeps their whole life.  I have a 47 2A, that had a hole in the block.   one good book i have found is "Jeep CJ Rebuilders Manual" by Moses Ludel.   he also wrote the "Jeep owners Bible" that i dont have yet.   I have found that this page is also a really good resource.  
If I am going to hell, I am going in a willys.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 11:21am
Welcome to the group.
 
I can't tell for sure if you have one manual or two.   If you are describing a separate Mechanics Manual ( a Willys reprint), that is good.  If you do not have the reprint of the Willys manual, I would not rely entirely on books by Moses Ludel.  His examples are framed mostly around a CJ5 with an occasional reference to, or picture of, the 2A.  It may lead you to believe that if he does not mention the 2A, then whatever he is describing applies to both his CJ5 and everything else.  That is just not the case.  You will be better served with a Willys manual to go with the Ludel book.  FWIW, I have both of Ludel's books and never use them.  If I were rebuilding and modifying a CJ5, I would feel differently, but that is not the case. 
 
Also, where is the '48 block cracked?  If it is the very common external crack under the distributor, it can be easily repaired.
Sam

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WI Willys 48 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 12:32pm
Thanks for the reply.  I have the Ludel Manual 46-71?  I agree it looks great for working on a CJ5.  I did purchase the reprint and it has a lot of good information that should help.  The current block has the crack starting at the top of the second cylinder wall for about 1 1/2 inches and runs over the top of the block for about another 3/4 inch.  I was told this was non-repairable by the Nothstar Willys.  He said the best bet was to start with a new block.  The current block does have a small crack (apparently by the looks) below the distributor-I can see where coolant has leaked some.  What are you thoughts and what's the best fix on the new block as well as how should I determine how much to bore out the new block once pulled and cleaned?
 
 Thanks-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 12:40pm
as for the crack below the distributor, mine had 2 separate long cracks in that area, both were prepped, and welded shut using a DC stick welder, and nickle rod....on the issue of your cylinder crack, welding will not repair that, but, any good machine shop can bore it out, and re-sleeve it, costly, but can be done....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 2:18pm
Originally posted by WI Willys 48 WI Willys 48 wrote:

. . . .The current block does have a small crack (apparently by the looks) below the distributor-I can see where coolant has leaked some.  What are you thoughts and what's the best fix on the new block as well as how should I determine how much to bore out the new block once pulled and cleaned?  . . . .
 
I'm assuming the "current block" and "new block" above are the same block as opposed to the one that is more severely cracked that Northstar Willys suggested be replaced.
 
Your best bet is to take the new block to a the machine shop that would bore it and have them measure the cylinders to determine how much, if any, boring is needed.  I think that it is possible to get up to .060 inch oversize pistons.  If more than that is needed,  you will need to have the cyclinder sleeved.
 
There is another very simple fix that can be used to stop the coolant seeping out of the little crack below the distributor.  Clean it and slather on a few coats of fibreglas resin!   It worked for me back in the day.  The resin cures but remains flexible enough to deall with the small bit if expansion and contraction that causes those cracks to open up and seep collant when the engine warms up.  In your case, with the engine already out and being machined anyway, I think it makes more sense to use the cast iron welding technique that low described.   I just couldn't resist mentioning that unorthodox fix 'cause it is so painless.
 
Keep us posted on the progress.
Sam

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 3:32pm
Originally posted by samcj2a samcj2a wrote:

  Clean it and slather on a few coats of fibreglas resin! 
 
 
Along the same lines as Sam's suggestion JB Weld is a great product for this particular application too and is cheap......I agree though, if it is out might as well weld it.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote X007925 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 5:36pm
I second Roc's recomendation on JB Weld. I used it to fix a hole in my block on the roof of the intake port. Still holding strong after three years.....
Rich

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jus*Jack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 6:18pm
Ok, I've said this so often, that all of the "regulars" around here must surely think that I'm a "shill" of some sort for either Ron Fistzpatrick or John Barton <g>, but...

Go HERE

and read (and download, if you can) each of the four different "stickies" (near the top of the listing of threads) entitled "Rebuilding the Jeep Engine, Part (1-4)"...That will provide you with more info on the actual work involved than you'll find anyplace else, IMHO.

I too, have Ludel's books...they sit on my bookshelf, gathering dust.

And WELCOME!!!!
Seeya!

<Jack>

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkreutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 7:47pm
Naw Jack, to be considered a "shill" (how'd you pick up that word in Georgia?), you would have to be promoting something bad, or trying to drive the price up. I don't think either apply in this case. Only thing that puts me off sometimes about the "G" is the tone of the discussions when they start arguing about the correct length of a cotter pin or something like that.LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jus*Jack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 10:09pm
Hehe...I know what you mean about "the G", Gale. there's a wealth of good info over there, along with some gigantic egos! This is one of the things that fascinates, and delights me about this forum...there just don't seem to be any egos on the line around here. Sure, we have the occasional disagreement over what is/was "correct", or whether it's better to try for an absolutely correct restoration, or to build up a FUN Jeep, and devil take the hindmost! <g> But I'd bet that WE, as a group, probably enjoy our Jeeps more than those guys over there...at least the ones who are most vocal, and I'm sure glad!

However, I go over there from time to time, and read through some of the posts, and it's things like John Barton's tutorial that makes that site have such value to me. I've just never seen anybody else with the ability that he seems to have in "holding your hand", while you're to be picking up a wrench (and he'll probably tell you what size! <g>) And best of all, the price is right! <g>

Seeya!

<Jack>

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GaryArf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar. 2008 at 10:43pm
I've gone over a number of blocks in the past 9 months and they ALL seem to have their "issues" I've had good luck with the JB weld fix but if possable it would be better to weld it. Any cracked block can be fixed but will need to be heated up untill red hot slowly and welded then cooled slowly over a couple days. There is an outfit in Chicago that will do this and machine it as well...$$$$$$ This is for the guys that REALLY need their original block.
  As far as the "g503" goes that sight is a great resorce and more "mature" as far as how long it's been out there, and yes there are some egos and intolerance as well. I think that we on the 2A Page have set a high standard to promote originality in our Jeeps that doesn't leave a highbrow, nose-up feel...At least I hope that isn't the feeling that newbies get. If this site didn't try to get to the heart of the original 2A what would be the point?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar. 2008 at 12:19am
THere is also a method that pins block cracks shut by inserting overlapping tapered threaded pins into the crack. Each pin locks the previous one, and no welding damage like warpage, heat hardening, etc happens. They can do some amazing work, and the website for the company that sells the system shows some incredible fixes on trashed cast parts. i think it is Lock-rite but I'm not sure.  There should be links to them over on the Gee, if you do a search for pinning cracked blocks.
 
By the way, John Barton is definitely one of us.. I bought a project GPW from him a long while ago, and got to meet him in person. He's a heck of a nice guy, and he knows his jeeps. So if you ever get a chance to meet him at Gilbert or the NY shows, tell him how much we appreciate that engine guide over on the G-503 site. He's usually the one selling gennie WWII axes and tools.
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WI Willys 48 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar. 2008 at 12:58am
Hey I really appreciate all the replys back on "the block".  We will be pulling the good block out of the 46 parts jeepth is weekend.  Will keep posted. 
 
Thanks Again for the replies from a past VW Head.
WI 48 WIllys
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