Grampa's Cj2a |
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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From my experience..... Mess=Progress! Rock on Stan!
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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You call that messy?? I can't even see the top of my bench!
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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chasendeer
Member Joined: 24 Feb. 2012 Location: Napa,CA Status: Offline Points: 1081 |
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Did the new oil pan stop the leaks? Is it worth it? Thanks Jay |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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“Is it worth it” is pretty subjective. The Novak transfer case pan is pretty expensive, but now that’s one place that doesn’t leak. I still have other leaks that I can’t seem to solve no matter what I do. I’ve mostly decided to live with them. I could have messed with the stock pan and probably gotten it flattened out and sealed up, but I was sick of fighting with it. Also, at the time I was on a bit of a deadline to get things ready to go to the Black. Hills Run. The fact that it holds a little more gear lub is a good thing too. For me, it was worth it. It does what they say it will, and it is really pretty.
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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Back at it today.
Got the old axle unbolted and out. After stripping down the old axle and painting the “new” axle, I noticed that the new axle had the brake line brackets cut off. Wonder why they did that? Here’s what it looked like on the original axle. Here’s a bad picture of how it looks after cutting it off the old and welding it on the new one and painting it. After I finished that I drilled and tapped a hole in the new tube for the brass tee for the brake lines. Spent the rest of the day changing the bearings on the new differential, moved the Lock Right locker from the old diff to the new one making sure the gaps are within tolerances, only .003 off of optimal, and installing the diff back in the housing. |
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Natroneus
Member Joined: 23 Jan. 2018 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 1 |
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Do you run lockers in both the front and rear diffs? How do you prevent drive line binding?
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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Yes, I have Lock Right automatic ratcheting lockers on both front and rear axles. I have not really had much trouble with drive line binding. I think the fact that the Lock Rights are only locked tight under torque and when you ease up on the throttle they will ratchet. I don't use 4 wheel drive on dry pavement so there is no issue there. When descending a steep slope in 4wd and while using the engine as a brake, the steering does fight me a some. To manage this a little bit I have removed the interlock pill in the D18 transfer case so that I can shift into 2wd low. A quick push forward on the 4wd shifter puts me into 2wd and I get easy steering back. I don't always do this though. Sometimes on slick rock steep descents I want all 4 tires holding me back. In this case, I just muscle up and use the 2 arm power steering.
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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I finished putting the front end back together with a few hiccups, but I think I’m good to go now.
Today I did a couple of small projects that have been bugging me for a while. When I had my rollover accident last summer, one thing that got broken was a really cool NOS rear view mirror that a fellow forum member sent me. I felt worse about that than the windshield getting torn off and broken. The mirror bracket and frame were ok. Just the glass was broken out of it. I looked around for a replacement mirror head, but all the modern generic ones don’t have a stud to go through the bracket. Today I was at Autozone and saw this “cut to fit” replacement mirror. Thought what do I have to lose and brought it home. Pulled it out of the package and put the frame on it to mark the size with a sharpie. Then cut it with regular scissors. I had to bend the lip of the frame back a little and do some detail trimming to get it to fit. Then I bent the lip back over to hold it in, bolted it on and I’m done with that. If it gets bent or scratched I can just cut another piece out and replace it. I think next time I might cut some heavy card stock to put behind it for a little more strength, but I’m pretty happy with how this turned out |
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wadoyado
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 29 Sep. 2016 Location: Mi. Status: Offline Points: 728 |
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Great tip! thanks Stan Joe W
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"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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2nd project today.
The replacement windshield that I got from Jpet and Ralph was missing the middle latch that holds the inner windshield shut. The screws were broken off flush and painted over. I ordered a repop latch, but it wouldn’t fit right so I just left the broken screws in there and drove it with just the lollipop side brackets holding the windshield together. Another member noticed in a pic that I didn’t have a latch and sent me a used one that he thought might be too worn and rusty to use. The screws that held that one on the frame were frozen so he just cut up the junk frame and sent the latch still attached to the frame piece. I tried to save the screws, but they broke of course. The handle was really loose on the bracket. Here’s a couple of pictures where I rocked it back and forth so you can see the slop. So I put the thing on the anvil part of my vice and hit it with a hammer. That tightened it up some, but not enough. I then got a center punch and peened it a few times (no pic of that). That seemed to do the job nicely. I got the old broken off screws drilled out and tapped. I couldn’t find short enough screws at the local Ace store so I put a flat and a lock washer on the shortest ones I found. Another little project done. Thanks for the latch Mike. It works great. Just had to use my favorite tool on it. The 3 lb sledge. |
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Flatfender Ben
Member Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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Always nice to get little things done.
Thanks for the info on mirror replacement.
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1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog 1948 cj2a blue jeep 1953 cj3b yard dog 1955 willys wagon 1955 willys pickup 1956 willys pickup boomer 1960 fc 170 1968 jeepster commando 1990 Grand wagoneer |
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Looking good Stan! I picked up an original latch of ebay... seems much better than the repros out there. Mine has a little spring washer to keep the handle tight, but Peening the rivet to snug things up is a great Idea! My big old hammer is also my favorite tool. Mine even has a name! "Omar" No idea where it came from but its stamped on the side of the head...Haha!
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Stan, you're a magician with that 3 lb. sledge! I knew you could make it work. It is too bad that the screws broke, though. They're kinda period-definitive. Replacements just look... replacement-y. |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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I know. No self respecting vehicle from the 40s would have a dual head type screw on it. I am the guy that uses whatever works. I’ll try and get some red dirt on it at Mosb for Easter Jeep Safari. Maybe that will disguise those replacements a little.
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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I found some slotted screws at the hardware store.....
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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The originals are neat-looking because they have large-diameter thin heads. They just look right for a '40s Jeep--like screws you can't find anywhere any more. Personally, I would have used stainless, though. I hate rusty screws. |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Yeah the originals are cool. these are brass. They will tarnish but not rust.
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3422 |
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Those screws with the big flat heads are called pan head screws and are still available. Some hardware stores like our local Ace hardware had them.
Jim |
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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