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Lighting questions

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wadoyado View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2017 at 4:35pm
    This is a very timely thread for me (wiring and lights) thanks Steelyard Blues for starting it and thanks to Hawk,Bruce for the pics. The pic should show what Capt. Logger was talking about putting directional lights on back in the olden days,(extra hole drilled below original parking lights for old style running lights. Hawk, grill looks great(white) It's like how it would be "hand" built today. What did you use between the grill and fenders? Also the pic should show some rear lights that where on the junk yard replacement tub I put on years ago. The lights have red glass lenses are made of heavy cast iron with K-D 541 Pat. pend. the bulb says G 57x and looks like a flash light bulb. Do you think the bulbs you have shown would work in these lights? Thanks in advance Joe
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Ol' Unreliable View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2017 at 9:55pm
Originally posted by athawk11 athawk11 wrote:

Mine are just a simple, off the shelf Rustoleum brown.  Maybe called Walnut or something similar.


Rust-Oleum "leather brown" perhaps?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov. 2017 at 2:27pm


Wadoyado,
The anti-squeak material is a 1/16" thick rubber material infused with strands of fiber for reinforcement.  I got it from Raynor Garage Doors.  They call it "Hood Baffle Seal".  It's easy to work with, cheap, and best of all, it doesn't hold water like the original welting does.  You have to cut it to size. You can probably pick some up at your local Raynor Door dealer.

I looked up 57X bulbs.  Here is a link.  What I found weird...14 volts...??? 


Ol',
I checked the can...Rustoleum Satin "Expresso".
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec. 2017 at 2:58am
I didn't know Rust-Oleum made a brown other than "Leather".  The stores I find it at don't have a very wide selection of Rust-Oleum.

Interesting aside: I once made a really nice olive green color by mixing R-O Leather Brown and Hunter Green at 1:1.  Only problem is, it's a glossy olive.  I never tried to find a way to flatten it.  I wonder if it could be done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec. 2017 at 10:00am
Anywhere that mixes paint should have a flattening agent that goes in some formulas to make paint satin or even flat. Sherwin-Williams should have something like that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec. 2017 at 10:02am
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

I didn't know Rust-Oleum made a brown other than "Leather".  The stores I find it at don't have a very wide selection of Rust-Oleum.



Check your local Walmart. They have come out with all kinds of different colors lately.

A friend was redoing a toolbox and was looking for something to match Kennedy brown. I bought a can that was too dark and wrong shade (almost black) but he did find one close. So there are some new browns out there if you can find a Walmart with an updated display (or comparable store)

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'48 CJ2A Lefty

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec. 2017 at 9:28pm
I need to go have a looksee.  I had a hard time finding R-O rusty metal primer at Wally World a while back. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec. 2017 at 2:32am

Just wrapped up a solid ten hour shift on the Jeep.

 

The brake light switch was bad. Getting the old one out was not too difficult. The replacement must have been metric. I didn’t have a socket that size. So it was a fight to tighten. Heat shield is a bit of a pain too. Brake lights are working but RH is intermittent. I need to check some of my connections.

 

I got the high beam tell tale light working. I had already rewired it and cleaned it up after the previous owner painted over it. A bad ground was keeping it from working

 

I got the dash light working. I had rebuilt it but still no light. The little switch was bad. I ordered a new one, but does not quite match. I looked the old one over, took it apart, soaked the pieces in acid and cleaned it up with a wire brush. I coated it in dielectric grease. It works. I love bringing these things back to life. 70 year old switch and lights. A little bit of time and it is as good as new. I know I wont be doing this in 20 years to my 2017 F150.

 

I got the headlight wires routed correctly. Thanks for the info. I got them aimed somewhat correctly. I need to upgrade to some halogens.

 

I put a new speedometer cable in. Old one had a nice knurled nut that came off with ease by hand. New one had a one inch nut. No possibility of getting a wrench in there. Threads sucked. Had a hell of a time getting it somewhat snug. I had to use slip joint pliers. Made a mess of the nut. Cheap crap. I hope it does not leak.

 

I cleaned up the speedometer, removed the orange paint around the bezel and painted it black. I now have a speedometer and I can see it with the light.

 

After four tries, I found a fan belt that works. That was an adventure.

 

I cut new hoses for both ends of the intake horn and vent tube. With new clamps, I think she will now breath only clean air. (Rock Auto sells it in a three foot section.)

 

I installed a new choke cable and removed the fast idle cable. No way to connect this on the carb.

 

I installed a windshield hold down strap to the grill.

 

I chased the threads, painted and installed the new nut and washer for the lollipop.

 

Took it for a spin around the block at 10:30 before it is supposed to snow tonight.

 

The list of things to straighten out is shrinking. I need to look at the brakes. The fluid did not look good. The front running lights need to be wired and lenses installed. I need the chrome rings around the headlights installed. One is a little bent up. I want to replace the shifter gasket. I think it may be leaking. The boots need to be replaced. I have a new tailpipe and all new hangers to install. I have a new fuel sender to put in. I need to find an original horn and rewire the button.

 

Getting there.

 

Micah

1947 CJ2A, Body & Frame: 106327, Engine: J109205, Tub and Tailgate: 97077. Originally Luzon Red

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec. 2017 at 3:56pm
Originally posted by Steelyard Blues Steelyard Blues wrote:


<font face="Times New Roman" size="3">



<p ="Msonormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><font face="Calibri">I put a new speedometer cable in. Old one had a nice knurled
nut that came off with ease by hand. New one had a one inch nut. No possibility
of getting a wrench in there. Threads sucked. Had a hell of a time getting it
somewhat snug. I had to use slip joint pliers. Made a mess of the nut. Cheap crap.
I hope it does not leak.<o:p></o:p>

<font face="Times New Roman" size="3
            This might help on one item of the list. If your outer cable is still in good shape might have to just replace the inner.....7.50$ at Nappa came with it's own staking tool. Good luck Joe
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec. 2017 at 9:00pm
Thanks for the info. All that was left of the cable was six inches at the end.
I'll et rid of it when I tear it down for restoration at a future date.
 
 
Micah
 
1947 CJ2A, Body & Frame: 106327, Engine: J109205, Tub and Tailgate: 97077. Originally Luzon Red

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Teleboy444 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb. 2019 at 11:05am
Hello! 

Jumping on this thread... I have the same set up as athawk11 with a 3/4 inch hole for larger sockets/dual filament bulbs, Walck's wire harness for turn signals, original lenses and bezels for parking lights/signals. It's a great way to get an original look with turn signals. And a good way to "have it all" I'm thinking...

My question is, do the sockets for the front parking/signal lights need to be grounded? Or are they grounded through the switch/terminal somehow?

Before I mar the beautiful Normandy Blue paint job to get a ground I'd thought I'd ask!

Thanks for your help,

Brad - Exeter NH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2019 at 5:15am
Originally posted by Teleboy444 Teleboy444 wrote:

Hello! 

It's a great way to get an original look with turn signals. And a good way to "have it all" I'm thinking...

Brad - Exeter NH

There is another way... have you seen this?

1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2019 at 5:34am
I hid a 3/4 LED dual filament light under the lenses on my grill. But then again there isn't a whole lot stock or correct on mine. Ha! 


46 CJ2A rockcrawler
46 CJ2A resto-mod
51 Bantam-ish trailer
50-ish Sterling trailer
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19 Hemi Ram (parts hauler)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sparky13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2019 at 8:31am
Hey nofender.  What for light sockets did you use and where did you get them from?  How did you wire it up?  Any pictures of the wiring? 
Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2019 at 9:36am
Originally posted by sparky13 sparky13 wrote:

Hey nofender.  What for light sockets did you use and where did you get them from?  How did you wire it up?  Any pictures of the wiring? 

No socket needed. 

These are sealed LED lights. It's super simple. You enlarge he hole to 3/4. The the rubber grommet is installed. Then the LED bulb pops into the grommet. Think of a LED tail light in a big truck. The rubber ring retains it. You just pop the light itself in and out as needed. This is just a mini version. 

I use them everywhere. 

Here's some dual filaments on Amazon: 


Poison Spyder also sells some. This is what i used. But now the dual filaments are more widely available, giving you more options. A year ago there weren't that many suppliers of the dual.


Word of caution - the LEDs may not draw enough to trigger your flasher. So a LED compatible flasher is likely required. 
46 CJ2A rockcrawler
46 CJ2A resto-mod
51 Bantam-ish trailer
50-ish Sterling trailer
15 Grand (Mrs Nofender)
19 Hemi Ram (parts hauler)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sparky13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2019 at 11:47am
Thanks for the reply nofender. That seems pretty easy to me. 
Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Teleboy444 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2019 at 8:52am
Hi All. Question. I wired up the parking and headlights using a wiring harness I purchased from Walck's a few years ago (great quality). I used 3/4 inch sockets for the dual filament bulbs as my grill had already been modified to 3/4 inch holes for turn signals. I think it looks great.

A couple of things seem off though. The parking lights stay on when I turn on the headlights, I believe they are supposed to go off? I haven't tried the turn signals yet because I haven't bought a switch yet.

Also, the dash light comes on with the parking lights but goes off with the headlights. Is this correct? Doesn't seem right?

I'll try to post a couple of pictures with this message. One keeps turning sideways...

Brad
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb. 2019 at 10:05am
Teleboy,
At the light switch terminals, just switch positions of the park light wire and the dash light wire.
1- 1946 CJ2A   
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