locking hubs on a 46? |
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sgt kohler
Member Joined: 17 June 2015 Location: arp, texas Status: Offline Points: 118 |
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Posted: 08 Apr. 2018 at 1:34pm |
so after finishing my first 46 front to back and top to bottom, I scored a 46 rolling chasiss with a gpw engine and a t90 transmission. someone just pulled the body and sold me the rest. it has locking hubs on the front and I think on the rear.. im not sure why they were put on there because I was under the impression that's what transfer case was for when putting it into 4 wheel drive. I want them off and I want to go back to the original look and function. I pulled the front passenger side cap off and kinda looked around. what do I need to do from here. my other 46 is sitting next to it if I need a reference. do I need to get some extra parts to put back on???
thanks for any info peter
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ralf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 06 May 2008 Location: Fayetteville WV Status: Offline Points: 4861 |
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Factory 2A's had front hubs locked and the transfer case disengages the front drive train. But the rolling wheels still turn the entire front drivr train even though disengaged at transfer case. All lockers do is unlock the wheels from the disengaged front drive train so energy is not wasted turning the axles and propeller shaft. Very common mod but suit yourself.
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1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor 1941 J-3 Cub 1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor 1942 Clarktor WW2 tug |
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Flatfender Ben
Member Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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Some people do a rear locking hub conversion for flat towing.
Do a search and see if that’s what you have.
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1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog 1948 cj2a blue jeep 1953 cj3b yard dog 1955 willys wagon 1955 willys pickup 1956 willys pickup boomer 1960 fc 170 1968 jeepster commando 1990 Grand wagoneer |
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sgt kohler
Member Joined: 17 June 2015 Location: arp, texas Status: Offline Points: 118 |
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I just want to remove both the front and rear lockouts .. we are going to build an mb jeep on this frame and around the motor transmission setup. so id want the stock axle look. what parts will I have to replace? ive looked at a few vendors and they don't even advertise the dust covers. im planning on redoing all the brakes and bearings, seals and whatever else needs done while im in there. so that would be the best time to make it back to original.
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6143 |
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Hey Peter,
To replace the locking hubs in the front, you just need the drive flanges and the dust cover. Numbers 7 and 10 in this illustration. You’ll probably have to get them from somebody used. Not really a part that anyone is reproducing. Not sure about the rear. I don’t have any experience with the full floating rear axles. |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9652 |
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If it has locking (UNlocking, actually) hubs on the rear, you will have to replace the rear axle shafts, axle bearings, hubs, probably the brake drums, and possibly the differential side gears. Someone is sure to be wanting the stuff you take off and be willing (wanting!) to make a trade. Heck, I might be that guy! BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Bruce is right the rear locking hub mod is a very sought after alteration and not cheap.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Possibly it would just require taking off the locking hubs and replacing the axle shafts with MB/GPW shafts. It might be easier to find an MB/GPW whole rear axle to swap though. |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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sgt kohler
Member Joined: 17 June 2015 Location: arp, texas Status: Offline Points: 118 |
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ok, I found the front parts to put it back to original. no problem. but I have absolutely no experience with locking hubs. if I use the high low shifter and put it into four wheel drive whats the purpose of the the lockouts on the rear? don't both wheels turn in two wheel drive? after I get this sorted out I may do some trading for a stock style rear axle setup. but before I pull it out im gonna post some pictures so someone who knows more then me can tell me what I have. what I think I have is a mutt! but I love a challenge!!!
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Nothing Special
Member Joined: 02 Feb. 2018 Location: Roseville, MN Status: Offline Points: 845 |
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In order to drive a tire, the engine needs to be connected all the way to the tire. Yes, that's kind of a "Duh!" statement, but it often helps to think about it in the most simple terms. So to be connected, that means:
So just shifting the transfer case will change it from 2WD to 4WD (or neutral)and you do not need to unlock the hubs to do that. So what's the point of locking hubs? Shifting into 2WD will break the connection between the engine and the tires, but the tires will still be connected to the axle. And any time the axle can drive the tires, the tires can also drive the axle (another "Duh" statement). It's OK to drive in 2WD with the front tires driving the front axle, but if you can unlock the front hubs, then you have less drag, less wear, and less vibration when you are in 2WD. Is that important? Depends on how you use your vehicle, but those are the reasons you might want to unlock front hubs. How about the rear? That's just if you are towing your Jeep (towing it behind another vehicle with at least the rear tires on the ground). Without unlocking the rear hubs the rear tires will drive the axle which will drive the transfer case, which (if not in neutral) will drive the transmission. The transmission and transfer case aren't really built to be run without the input side turning to splash gear lube around, so you can burn them up doing that. To avoid that potential damage you need to break that connection. Unlocking rear hubs is the easiest way to do that, so it's a popular modification on vehicles that will be towed a lot. But you can also do it by pulling the rear axle shafts (if you have a full-floating rear axle, or else by removing the rear driveshaft. Both of those work to protect the transfer case and trans, they just aren't as easy as unlocking hubs.
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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It's said that a 2A model 41 axle under flat-tow needs to have the outer axle bearings lubed every 300 or so miles. The unlocked hubs can eliminate this requirement.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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ggordon49
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 30 June 2017 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 1437 |
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I know this seems elementary to some of you guys, I apologize in advance. I would like to clear up a question I have been thinking about.... What is the proper transfer case setting when in 2WD? Currently I have my 'FRONT AXLE DRIVE' in the "OUT" position and the 'AUX RANGE' in "HIGH", is that correct or should it be in "NEUTRAL"?
Thank you. |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6143 |
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Aux in high is correct. The thing won't move with the transfer case in neutral.
I drive my jeep a lot and still find myself leaning over to look at the picture on the data plate to make sure I have it right.
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ggordon49
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 30 June 2017 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 1437 |
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Thank you Sir!! |
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