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locking hubs on a 46?

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sgt kohler View Drop Down
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    Posted: 08 Apr. 2018 at 1:34pm
so after finishing my first 46 front to back and top to bottom, I scored a 46 rolling chasiss with a gpw engine and a t90 transmission.    someone just pulled the body and sold me the rest.   it has locking hubs on the front and I think on the rear..   im not sure why they were put on there because I was under the impression that's what transfer case was for when putting it into 4 wheel drive.    I want them off and I want to go back to the original look and function.   I pulled the front passenger side cap off and kinda looked around.   what do I need to do from here.   my other 46 is sitting next to it if I need a reference. do I need to get some extra parts to put back on???
 thanks for any info       peter
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr. 2018 at 1:44pm
Factory 2A's had front hubs locked and the transfer case disengages the front drive train. But the rolling wheels still turn the entire front drivr train even though disengaged at transfer case. All lockers do is unlock the wheels from the disengaged front drive train so energy is not wasted turning the axles and propeller shaft. Very common mod but suit yourself.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr. 2018 at 3:25pm
Some people do a rear locking hub conversion for flat towing. 
Do a search and see if that’s what you have. 
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sgt kohler View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sgt kohler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr. 2018 at 4:40pm
I just want to remove both the front and rear lockouts .. we are going to build an mb jeep on this frame and around the motor transmission setup.   so id want the stock axle look.   what parts will I have to replace?   ive looked at a few vendors and they don't even advertise the dust covers.   im planning on redoing all the brakes and bearings, seals and whatever else needs done while im in there.  so that would be the best time to make it back to original. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr. 2018 at 8:01pm
Hey Peter,
To replace the locking hubs in the front, you just need the drive flanges and the dust cover. Numbers 7 and 10 in this illustration.

You’ll probably have to get them from somebody used. Not really a part that anyone is reproducing.

Not sure about the rear. I don’t have any experience with the full floating rear axles.







Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr. 2018 at 8:36pm
If it has locking (UNlocking, actually) hubs on the rear, you will have to replace the rear axle shafts, axle bearings, hubs, probably the brake drums, and possibly the differential side gears. Someone is sure to be wanting the stuff you take off and be willing (wanting!) to make a trade. Heck, I might be that guy!  BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr. 2018 at 8:42pm
Bruce is right the rear locking hub mod is a very sought after alteration and not cheap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2018 at 12:23am
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

If it has locking (UNlocking, actually) hubs on the rear, you will have to replace the rear axle shafts, axle bearings, hubs, probably the brake drums, and possibly the differential side gears. Someone is sure to be wanting the stuff you take off and be willing (wanting!) to make a trade. Heck, I might be that guy!  BW


Possibly it would just require taking off the locking hubs and replacing the axle shafts with MB/GPW shafts.  It might be easier to find an MB/GPW whole rear axle to swap though.
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sgt kohler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2018 at 1:58pm
ok,    I found the front parts to put it back to original. no problem.   but  I have absolutely no experience with locking hubs.   if I use the high low shifter and put it into four wheel drive whats the purpose of the the lockouts on the rear?    don't both wheels turn in two wheel drive?   after I get this sorted out I may do some trading for a stock style rear axle setup.  but before I pull it out im gonna post some pictures so someone who knows more then me can tell me what I have.    what I think I have is a mutt!    but I love a challenge!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2018 at 5:52pm
In order to drive a tire, the engine needs to be connected all the way to the tire.  Yes, that's kind of a "Duh!" statement, but it often helps to think about it in the most simple terms.  So to be connected, that means:
  • the trans has to be in gear
  • the transfer case needs to be in either 2WD or 4WD (not neutral) for the rear axle to be connected, and needs to be in 4WD for the front axle to be connected
  • the locking hubs (on the axle being considered) need to be locked

So just shifting the transfer case will change it from 2WD to 4WD (or neutral)and you do not need to unlock the hubs to do that.

 
So what's the point of locking hubs?  Shifting into 2WD will break the connection between the engine and the tires, but the tires will still be connected to the axle.  And any time the axle can drive the tires, the tires can also drive the axle (another "Duh" statement).  It's OK to drive in 2WD with the front tires driving the front axle, but if you can unlock the front hubs, then you have less drag, less wear, and less vibration when you are in 2WD.  Is that important?  Depends on how you use your vehicle, but those are the reasons you might want to unlock front hubs.
 
How about the rear?  That's just if you are towing your Jeep (towing it behind another vehicle with at least the rear tires on the ground).  Without unlocking the rear hubs the rear tires will drive the axle which will drive the transfer case, which (if not in neutral) will drive the transmission.  The transmission and transfer case aren't really built to be run without the input side turning to splash gear lube around, so you can burn them up doing that.  To avoid that potential damage you need to break that connection.  Unlocking rear hubs is the easiest way to do that, so it's a popular modification on vehicles that will be towed a lot.  But you can also do it by pulling the rear axle shafts (if you have a full-floating rear axle, or else by removing the rear driveshaft.  Both of those work to protect the transfer case and trans, they just aren't as easy as unlocking hubs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2018 at 5:26am
It's said that a 2A model 41 axle under flat-tow needs to have the outer axle bearings lubed every 300 or so miles.  The unlocked hubs can eliminate this requirement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ggordon49 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2018 at 1:51pm
I know this seems elementary to some of you guys, I apologize in advance. I would like to clear up a question I have been thinking about.... What is the proper transfer case setting when in 2WD? Currently I have my 'FRONT AXLE DRIVE' in the "OUT" position and the 'AUX RANGE' in "HIGH", is that correct or should it be in "NEUTRAL"?
Thank you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2018 at 2:49pm
Aux in high is correct. The thing won't move with the transfer case in neutral. 
I drive my jeep a lot and still find myself leaning over to look at the picture on the data plate to make sure I have it right.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ggordon49 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2018 at 3:06pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Aux in high is correct. The thing won't move with the transfer case in neutral. 
I drive my jeep a lot and still find myself leaning over to look at the picture on the data plate to make sure I have it right.


Thank you Sir!!
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