Monarch Governor Coupling Rod

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   At some point a previous owner had cut the governor control cable away from the adjustment coupling to the clevis, leaving an approximately 1" shortfall between the two. I decided I wanted to create a non-destructive way to reattach the cable to the rod. From a previous post, it was noted that the two through and through holes in the rod allowed for deforming the cable thereby keeping it from pulling out. I wanted to avoid that, if possible.
I started with a 3-1/4" length of 1/4" round stock. Drilled a 5/64" hole down the barrel on one end to a depth of about an 1". I then located 2 holes, 90 degrees from each other, drilling them midway to intersect the barrel hole. I ran a 1/4"-28 die over the rod to about an 1-1/2" for the locknut and then used a #36 jobber bit and used a 6-32 bottom tap to thread holes for the 6-32x1/8" stainless set screws. A little dab of red AST-Lock on each screw and the plan worked.
The process took a couple of hours I believe and the cable length was preserved for the future. I would have loved to have recessed the set screws further into the rod, but the 1/8" set screw pretty much dictated differently.  I am truly an admirer of all the work that the vast majority of members here are capable of and it inspires me.
Here are some photos of the finished product.

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
timcj2a Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 July 2005 Location: Chula Vista, CA. Status: Offline Points: 801	Post Options Post Reply Quote timcj2a Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Monarch Governor Coupling Rod Posted: 10 Mar. 2017 at 1:47am
	At some point a previous owner had cut the governor control cable away from the adjustment coupling to the clevis, leaving an approximately 1" shortfall between the two. I decided I wanted to create a non-destructive way to reattach the cable to the rod. From a previous post, it was noted that the two through and through holes in the rod allowed for deforming the cable thereby keeping it from pulling out. I wanted to avoid that, if possible. I started with a 3-1/4" length of 1/4" round stock. Drilled a 5/64" hole down the barrel on one end to a depth of about an 1". I then located 2 holes, 90 degrees from each other, drilling them midway to intersect the barrel hole. I ran a 1/4"-28 die over the rod to about an 1-1/2" for the locknut and then used a #36 jobber bit and used a 6-32 bottom tap to thread holes for the 6-32x1/8" stainless set screws. A little dab of red AST-Lock on each screw and the plan worked. The process took a couple of hours I believe and the cable length was preserved for the future. I would have loved to have recessed the set screws further into the rod, but the 1/8" set screw pretty much dictated differently. I am truly an admirer of all the work that the vast majority of members here are capable of and it inspires me. Here are some photos of the finished product.
	1946 CJ2A #69376 Chula Vista, CA #69376

Ol' Unreliable Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ol' Unreliable Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Mar. 2017 at 6:46pm
	Looks like an eminently suitable repair to me!
	There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable

3-48s Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 18 Sep. 2008 Location: Upstate, NY Status: Offline Points: 2783	Post Options Post Reply Quote 3-48s Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Mar. 2017 at 2:01pm
	Great Fix!
	1945 CJ2A #10536 1948 CJ2A #176528 "Elmer" 1948 CJ2A #155970 "Gray Mule" 1948 CJ2A #155365 "Old Yeller" (GONE) BANTAM T3C # 6147 (GONE) BANTAM T3C # 30856

timcj2a Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 July 2005 Location: Chula Vista, CA. Status: Offline Points: 801	Post Options Post Reply Quote timcj2a Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Mar. 2017 at 4:47pm
	Thanks for the compliments. I wanted to post this idea in case someone else was in a similar situation. If there is anyone else who has found another remedy, please share it. Tim
	1946 CJ2A #69376 Chula Vista, CA #69376

Gil Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 29 July 2016 Location: N.B.Canada. Status: Offline Points: 975	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gil Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Mar. 2017 at 2:39am
	Nice work,where there's a will there's a way. Giles.

tofamc Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 22 May 2009 Location: FRANCE - Loire Valley Status: Offline Points: 167	Post Options Post Reply Quote tofamc Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Mar. 2017 at 9:14am
	Very nice job!!

timcj2a Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 July 2005 Location: Chula Vista, CA. Status: Offline Points: 801	Post Options Post Reply Quote timcj2a Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Mar. 2017 at 4:18pm
	Thanks again guys. I really enjoy looking at what everyone else is doing to resolve the issues that we encounter with our little gems and I think these pictorials help generate conversation and spur other fixes that may be easier to achieve. Not all of us are machinists or engineers, so working with basic garage or shop tools often determine the limitations to our parts creations.
	1946 CJ2A #69376 Chula Vista, CA #69376

Max Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 11 Sep. 2015 Location: Buenos Aires Status: Offline Points: 101	Post Options Post Reply Quote Max Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 May 2017 at 3:43pm
	Thanks for posting Tim, good job. Quick question I have to re-create the longer arm of the governor, where the cable is attached. Based on the pictures you posted, the longer arm appears to be thicker than the shorter arm? Is this correct? How thick it is? Max
	Max CJ2A 110861

timcj2a Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 July 2005 Location: Chula Vista, CA. Status: Offline Points: 801	Post Options Post Reply Quote timcj2a Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 May 2017 at 11:05pm
	The longer rod that I created was the same size as the original one, 1/4" round stock. It was 1" longer than the original at 3-1/4" instead of 2-1/4". Everything is still holding up well. If you'd like, I could send you a piece or two instead of you buying some. I bought a 10' length when I started and still have 9' left, that I'll probably not need again. Let me know if you have any additional questions. Tim Edited by timcj2a - 27 May 2017 at 7:04pm
	1946 CJ2A #69376 Chula Vista, CA #69376

timcj2a Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 July 2005 Location: Chula Vista, CA. Status: Offline Points: 801	Post Options Post Reply Quote timcj2a Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 May 2017 at 7:01pm
	Max, Here is a scaled (1" = 1") drawing of the Monarch Governor Control Arm. I took my arm off and traced it as closely as possible. I then imported it into my drafting program, scaled it, and marked it up. The dashed marks at the bottom and left sides were original benchmarks, showing 1" spacing. I printed a copy from the resulting PDF and it was spot on. I hope this works for you. Tim uploads/8/Monarch_Governor_Arm.pdf
	1946 CJ2A #69376 Chula Vista, CA #69376