Monarch Governor Coupling Rod |
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timcj2a
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 July 2005 Location: Chula Vista, CA. Status: Offline Points: 801 |
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Posted: 10 Mar. 2017 at 1:47am |
At some point a previous owner had cut the governor control cable away from the adjustment coupling to the clevis, leaving an approximately 1" shortfall between the two. I decided I wanted to create a non-destructive way to reattach the cable to the rod.
From a previous post, it was noted that the two through and through holes in the rod allowed for deforming the cable thereby keeping it from pulling out. I wanted to avoid that, if possible. I started with a 3-1/4" length of 1/4" round stock. Drilled a 5/64" hole down the barrel on one end to a depth of about an 1". I then located 2 holes, 90 degrees from each other, drilling them midway to intersect the barrel hole. I ran a 1/4"-28 die over the rod to about an 1-1/2" for the locknut and then used a #36 jobber bit and used a 6-32 bottom tap to thread holes for the 6-32x1/8" stainless set screws. A little dab of red AST-Lock on each screw and the plan worked. The process took a couple of hours I believe and the cable length was preserved for the future. I would have loved to have recessed the set screws further into the rod, but the 1/8" set screw pretty much dictated differently. I am truly an admirer of all the work that the vast majority of members here are capable of and it inspires me. Here are some photos of the finished product. |
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Looks like an eminently suitable repair to me!
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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3-48s
Member Joined: 18 Sep. 2008 Location: Upstate, NY Status: Offline Points: 2783 |
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Great Fix!
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1945 CJ2A #10536
1948 CJ2A #176528 "Elmer" 1948 CJ2A #155970 "Gray Mule" 1948 CJ2A #155365 "Old Yeller" (GONE) BANTAM T3C # 6147 (GONE) BANTAM T3C # 30856 |
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timcj2a
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 July 2005 Location: Chula Vista, CA. Status: Offline Points: 801 |
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Thanks for the compliments. I wanted to post this idea in case someone else was in a similar situation. If there is anyone else who has found another remedy, please share it.
Tim
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Gil
Member Joined: 29 July 2016 Location: N.B.Canada. Status: Offline Points: 975 |
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Nice work,where there's a will there's a way.
Giles. |
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tofamc
Member Joined: 22 May 2009 Location: FRANCE - Loire Valley Status: Offline Points: 167 |
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Very nice job!!
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timcj2a
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 July 2005 Location: Chula Vista, CA. Status: Offline Points: 801 |
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Thanks again guys. I really enjoy looking at what everyone else is doing to resolve the issues that we encounter with our little gems and I think these pictorials help generate conversation and spur other fixes that may be easier to achieve. Not all of us are machinists or engineers, so working with basic garage or shop tools often determine the limitations to our parts creations.
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Max
Member Joined: 11 Sep. 2015 Location: Buenos Aires Status: Offline Points: 101 |
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Thanks for posting Tim, good job. Quick question I have to re-create the
longer arm of the governor, where the cable is attached. Based on the pictures
you posted, the longer arm appears to be thicker than the shorter arm? Is this
correct? How thick it is?
Max |
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Max
CJ2A 110861 |
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timcj2a
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 July 2005 Location: Chula Vista, CA. Status: Offline Points: 801 |
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The longer rod that I created was the same size as the original one, 1/4" round stock. It was 1" longer than the original at 3-1/4" instead of 2-1/4".
Everything is still holding up well. If you'd like, I could send you a piece or two instead of you buying some. I bought a 10' length when I started and still have 9' left, that I'll probably not need again. Let me know if you have any additional questions. Tim
Edited by timcj2a - 27 May 2017 at 7:04pm |
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timcj2a
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 July 2005 Location: Chula Vista, CA. Status: Offline Points: 801 |
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Max,
Here is a scaled (1" = 1") drawing of the Monarch Governor Control Arm. I took my arm off and traced it as closely as possible. I then imported it into my drafting program, scaled it, and marked it up. The dashed marks at the bottom and left sides were original benchmarks, showing 1" spacing. I printed a copy from the resulting PDF and it was spot on. I hope this works for you. Tim |
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