Newbie jitters with diagnosis and rebuild of l134

Recently acquired a L134 that was said to be running but sat for a bit of time.  When I first received it, I can turn motor by hand and hear some compression.  Decided to pull plugs but two of the four were rusted so bad they broke off.  Used a square easy out and removed rather easy.  Next thing I decided to do is remove head because some of t)3 spark plug rust went into the cylinder.  After a 2 day battle, the head broke free and lifted off.

Edited by Kulpfarm - 28 Aug. 2017 at 2:42am

with two very young kids and tight funds, I wanted to make this Jeep a driver and fix it up as I go over time.  Thought I could do minimal engine work to buy time to when I can afford a complete rebuild.  If it's better to wait, then Ill need to wait

OK so to me it sounds like your best bet is as Red Willy says. Clean up the top of the pistons and valves. Make sure the valves are properly adjusted. Make sure the Head is flat. Put a New head gasket on it and run a compression test. If you have better then 90 psi and a variation no greater then 10% you should already have a decent running engine. Run it until either the Oil pressure drops below acceptable (meaning most likely worn bearings) or the compression drops to the point you are loosing power (80 psi is getting close to the bottom IMHO)

When you go to put on the head do some searching here for recommendations and be sure to have a shop manual (downloadable from the pages manuals page).

thanks for all the great advice.  Brakes have all been refresh and in working order.  Tank was in rather good shape cleaned and painted.  I also have a brand new wiring harness from walcks waiting to be installed.

I made a decision to move towards a complete rebuild.  Since I have time, how can I break this engine rebuild into affordable parts.  Do I break it done completely and start with the bare block at machine shop to clean and check?  

X2!

Take lots & lots of pictures. When you feel that you have more than enough, take even more. These days with digital photos, taking tons of pictures does not cost much. Just time. Spend the time, it will save you much more time in the end, when it comes time to reassemble the engine.

Try to get at least three of each fitting, +/or bracket, before removing it, all from different angles. Six would be better, take some from different distances. After you remove anything, take at least three pictures of what it was covering. Also take pictures of what was removed as well. Be sure to get the side that was hidden by the block, or what ever it was attached to. There is no such thing as too many pictures. AMHIK.

Oh, Be sure to keep at least two copies of each photo. Keep them on different devices. Again, AMHIK!

IHTH, Cpt Logger.


Edited by cpt logger - 24 Aug. 2017 at 3:46am

Looking over this whole tread, I would like to say a few things. First, I rebuilt aircraft engines for a living for over 30 years. During that time, I rebuilt automobile, semi, & farm tractor engines as a hobby, so I have a small clue as to what will work & what will not.

I need a few questions answered before I can give you advise on this engine. Bar the lots of pictures advice, that will always be my advice.

1. Why are you looking at a rebuild? Just because it seems the best to have a fresh rebuild going forward?

2. Did you do a compression test before you pulled the head? If so, what were the readings? Dry & with oil squirted in the cylinders? If not, I assume it is because you were concerned about any damage the rust from the spark plugs would cause.

3. What do the cylinder walls look like? If rusty how bad? Surface rust with no pitting, or does the surface on the cylinders have craters in it?

4.What does the old oil look & feel like? Is it white & foamy, black & gritty, or is it green & clean?

5. Are the valves in adjustment? If so, it is more likely a fresh rebuild. At least we can guess the PO was concerned about proper maintenance.

6. What are your plans for this Jeep? Will it be a Daily Driver (DD), or a parade queen, or a twice a month ice-cream rig? Do you plan to wheel it? If so how much?

7. Last but certainly not least, How much cash & time do you have to throw at this engine?

Let me observe that a light coating of carbon on the valves & pistons is quite normal & not a reason for concern. A thick, heavy, coating is another matter.  

Mark has given some good advice. Hopefully, he will allow me to misquote him. Bolding mine.
"It is always the better option to do everything right the first time."

Please get back to us with the answers to these questions. It would help if you knew the history of this engine, but I get the impression that you do not know it. Is that true?

I hope to help, Cpt Logger. 

Edited by Kulpfarm - 26 Aug. 2017 at 3:44am

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