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Newbie jitters with diagnosis and rebuild of l134

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Kulpfarm View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kulpfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug. 2017 at 8:43pm
I did a very quick cleaning of the top of block.  I didn't see any crack.  Hopefully it was all of the residue crud making the optical illusion of a crack.  The picture was on cylinder two from front.



The intake valves is definitely pitted.  



Once I can get the intake and exhaust off the block, I will remove that valve and check the seat.  I did check the valves at most openness and the seat were dirty and not pitted but will not know for sure until removed. 

I do plan on pulling one rod and checking the bearing.  My goal is after Labor Day week.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug. 2017 at 11:37pm
As long as your pulling a rod might as well check the bore and measure the piston to get an idea of how much wear. You'll need a 3-4 mic. and telescopic gauges. Overall I think she looks pretty good, that oily looking residue might be from small amount of oil getting past the rings or a result of taking the head off. Joe
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kulpfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug. 2017 at 11:44pm
I will add that to the list of things to do.  The oil you see is from me wiping it down with clean oil to prevent flash rust since it is in an uncontrolled environment.

Any tricks to get the two bolts that are shared by both the intake and exhaust manifold that are partial hidden?

Thanks everyone for the help thus far
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2017 at 3:47am
I've never had any problem on my MB but I imagine you have done some research. Something like PB Blaster followed by heat and alternate for a few hours. Always worked for me anyway. Some swear by candle wax dribbled on parts, never tried that yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kulpfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2017 at 10:05pm
finally found more time to work on motor.  After days of soaking the shared bolts on the intake/exhaust manifold, the broke free.
Attach are some picture of that side of the motor.  How do you clean the intake and exhaust ports.  Did find two studs that broke flush to block.  Is this something I can tackle or better off at machine shop?  Tomorrow, I will try and pull the one valve that look rusted.




Edited by Kulpfarm - 17 Sep. 2017 at 10:14pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kulpfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2017 at 10:07pm
more pictures

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Kulpfarm View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kulpfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2017 at 10:08pm
valve cover removed

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kulpfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2017 at 10:10pm

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2017 at 11:35pm
It looks like there has been water in the exhaust manifold. The intake ports look fairly clean.

I would have expected the reverse, especially if the carburetor had been off the intake manifold for a while.

Hmm...
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kulpfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2017 at 11:49pm
the exhaust manifold was very delicate and broken in two spots.  I didn't see any cracks in the block. All exhaust ports look the same as photo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep. 2017 at 4:44am
I used a small wire brush on a die grinder or dremel tool to clean the ports, its important to clean the exposed part of the valve stem so it can be removed without scoring the valve guide. On the broken studs they seem fairly deep in the block.....could probably use a transfer punch to center punch the stud then try and drill the stud out with progressively larger dia. drills, then use a pick to pull remaining threads out(speaking from experience). Doesn't look like much of a ridge(if any) on the cyls., which is a good sign. If the valve seats aren't pitted and not an excessive amount wear on the pistons and cylinders you might get away with valve train clean-up, new rings, hone cylinders ect. Joe
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kulpfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct. 2017 at 2:19am
finally got around to removing the badly pitted valve.  They seat looks decent to me.  What do you think?
Also, how can I check the valve guide?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kulpfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct. 2017 at 2:20am
another picture 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cdn2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct. 2017 at 7:37pm
That valve seat to me doesnt look that bad. A quick lap and it should be ok.
To me you have a good block. Wire wheel the ports and get all the crud/rust out.
(cover the lifter area to prevent rust / garbage from falling down into the pan area.)

I'd verify the other seats as well. (in the pictures, could be camera angle or shadow
they look dirty/pitted + you wont get a good compression test)

To me, I'd clean it up, and run a compression test, that would tell you where to go,
next and how much its gonna cost you. Knowledge is power, and saves money too!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct. 2017 at 9:00pm
"Looks decent", yes, but good, no. At least there is something there to work with, but I would not run it as is, and lapping is a waste of time. It's valve grind time, or again, you're wasting your time. Do it right, do it once, be happy for a long time. Do it half-assed and you'll do it again and/or never  be happy with it.   JMO   BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct. 2017 at 11:42pm
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

" and lapping is a waste of time.  JMO   BW
   This is one of the few times I don't agree with Bruce W. By lapping the valves you can see the actual contact area on both the valve and the seat, it needs to make an air tight seal........you can lap the valves at home for a few bucks where as grinding the valves usually involves a trip to the machine shop. IMHO Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct. 2017 at 11:57pm
There are ways to see the contact area of the valve/seat without giving the wear process a head start. True, lapping is a process that can be DIY versus taking the engine to a machine shop, and can be used to "touch-up" slightly worn valves/seats, or to create an "instant, perfect seal", but lapping is not going to help the seat shown.   BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willy M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct. 2017 at 2:19pm
In the top pic of the seat, at the top of the seat, it looks like there's some "divots" that could take a while to lap out.  It would be best to grind them.  But, if going to the machine shop anyway, I'd consider having hardened seats installed with an eye to today's unleaded gas.  

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