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'Nother Diesel Build Thread |
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bobevans 
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Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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 Posted: 23 Jan. 2018 at 4:04am |
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Thanks Rick. I think I'm going to get one of the weld on mounting plates from Parts Mike, that should correct the angle of the box. I still think I need to go further forward as well.
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans
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Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2018 at 3:57am |
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I got an Advaned Adapters weld on plate for the steering box. That corrected the angle, but still left me too far back. Out came the plasma cutter and I took off some of my replacement cross member. Still not sure I’m far enough forward. How short can the Pittman arm be?
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans
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Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2018 at 4:07am |
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The Pittman arm is not pointing straight back in this picture. I am using an old YJ box to mock up. I think when the arm is pointing straight back, the drag link will be too far back and may hit the diff when flexing. Anyone got any great ideas?
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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Ol' Unreliable
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Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2018 at 5:09am |
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That hunk of channel doesn't belong there anyway. Get rid of it and put in a crossmember closer to where it should be, with a porthole for the steering shaft if necessary. Others have done it that way.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Rick G
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Joined: 17 May 2015 Location: Amarillo, TX Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2018 at 7:19am |
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Bob, your front axle is positioned too far forward. The spring perches and/or the springs are not correct. Look at other reference photos. I believe the axle is supposed to be slightly rearward of the apex of the frame arch. Yours is past forward of that position.
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bobevans
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Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2018 at 3:28pm |
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Thanks for the input guys, I really do appreciate your input. I guess I should have done a better job of explaining what I am trying to do . I would like to mount an automatic tranny (GM TH350) AND run 34 or 35" tires with no lift. The end goal is an off-road Jeep, legal enough to drive to the trail-head.
Edited by bobevans - 01 Feb. 2018 at 3:45pm |
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2018 at 3:34pm |
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[QUOTE=Ol' Unreliable]That hunk of channel doesn't belong there anyway. Get rid of it and put in a crossmember closer to where it should be, with a porthole for the steering shaft if necessary. Others have done it that way.
[/That chunk of channel is actually where the original front bumper would have been. I welded that in place before removing the original cross member. Then I added on the frame extensions. I intend to replace some sort of cross member further back, but in addition to the steering, the original cross member would limit how far forward I can set the engine. Having an auto tranny means a really long drive train and I want to get every inch forward I can. I was also hoping to use that as the posterior mount for a winch plate. Unfortunately, I think I may have to cut out at least a really big chunk of it. Thanks!QUOTE] |
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans
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Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2018 at 3:43pm |
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Bob, your front axle is positioned too far forward. The spring
perches and/or the springs are not correct. Look at other reference
photos. I believe the axle is supposed to be slightly rearward of the
apex of the frame arch. Yours is past forward of that position.
Rick, Thanks, especially for posting the pics of your set up. I am actually trying to increase my wheel base a little bit on both ends. The springs I am using are YJ springs and the inboard terminus is just about where the stock ones would have landed. I am hoping I am still within the arch enough to allow proper compression. I have also read that the front diff comes very close to the front of the engine on spring compression, so I want the axle as far forward as I can get. Address one problem, create two more! Probably have to hack up the "cross member". I was just hoping some one would suggest a magical shorter steering gear, different mounting bracket or some thing!. |
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans
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Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2018 at 1:36am |
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Well, I just couldn’t find a good spot for the steering gear with the channel in place, so I hacked it out. Position of drag link looks much better. I also got the GM “top plate “ for the u bolts, so I can finish u bolt flip on the front driver’s side
 Edited by bobevans - 03 Feb. 2018 at 2:06am |
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2018 at 1:41am |
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Also got a visit from the UPS man, who is also a Jeep guy. Good thing, cause this “Y link heavy duty steering with 1 ton TREs” from Ruff Stuff is really heavy.
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans
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Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2018 at 1:54am |
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It comes with two super long pieces of .25” wall DOM tubing, one for the tie rod and the other for the drag link. I was able to cut the tie rod piece based off of my old tie. It also has 4 weld in bungs, 2 left hand thread and two right. Placing one bung of each on the ends allows you to adjust the link just by spinning the rod. Jam nuts keep it in place and the bungs have flats, like a bolt, so you can spin the rod with a wrench. Thought I better weld the two left handed bungs in to 2 different tubes before I forget and just weld up what I pick up first. Can’t cut the drag link until the steering box is in place.
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2018 at 2:00am |
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The above picture shows the passenger side of tie rod. The tie rod end (a 1 ton GM, off the shelf piece) has provisions for accepting the drag link. This duplicates the original Wagoneer set up. The TREs will slide right into my knuckles. My Pittman arm will likely need rearmed out to accept the larger end, once I get some weight on the Jeep and decide what arm to run.
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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Ol' Unreliable
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Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Posted: 03 Feb. 2018 at 4:34am |
Very wise idea!  |
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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bobevans
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Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Posted: 15 Feb. 2018 at 1:20am |
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Started laying out and plumbing brake lines. Found longer front lines for the Wagoneer 44. I think they from an S-10, Wagner part # BH120541 and 542. I did have to drill out the banjo
 fitting to fit the 7/16 banjo bolt of the axles, but they are relatively cheap, off the shelf parts. |
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans
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Posted: 15 Feb. 2018 at 1:23am |
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On the rear axle, I really want to have a "poor man's cutting brake"
system. My plan is to have an e-brake cable from each rear wheel go to it's own unique e-brake handle so I can brake each rear wheel independently.
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans
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Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Posted: 15 Feb. 2018 at 1:31am |
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Layed the body back on the frame. If I get the courage soon, I will start cutting metal to open up the rear wheel openings. The Body is 2" to the rear in this pic.
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans
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Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Posted: 15 Feb. 2018 at 1:35am |
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I really need to get the engine as far forward as possible to fit the auto, so I'm playing with ideas to condense the grill and radiator. A late nineties Honda Civic radiator is 16 x 16 and will fit inside the shroud built into the grill. I think I should be able to shave off 5 or 6 " here. Anybody see any downside?
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans
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Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Posted: 18 Feb. 2018 at 3:32am |
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XJ Hanging Pedals
Sometimes it pays to be hoarder. I swapped a 4.0 into my '79 CJ7 a few years ago and I bought the whole, rusted out, low mileage Cherokee. I had heard the pedals and steering might be useful. I'm swapping in an automatic, so I didn't need the clutch pedal. Which was a good thing, because this XJ was an auto. 
Edited by bobevans - 18 Feb. 2018 at 3:50am |
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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bobevans wrote: