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Oh, where to start . . .

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Wmshay6 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02 Mar. 2013 at 11:06pm
I've posted about the Spen i picked up last week and thought i'd put up some pictures. I'm open to advice, input, ideas, suggestions, etc. i want to make into a modern jeep trailer ( w/ some sort of weatherproof cover- canvas or a lid). While making into a modern trailer, i also want to respect the relative rarity and historical value of the trailer and not chop it up. For example, I believe i can fit modern jeep wheels by using spacers that convert the 5x4.5 on the trailer to 5x5. This is a bolt on mod that is easily undone in the future.

So- the pictures:


A side view



Original chains?



These zerks on the leaf springs are kind of cool.



Not sure how to fix all of this rot in the front



The floor is rusted through



Dont know if the wheels are original- dont see any hub cap clips.



Some rot on the gate will need to be addressed.

Thanks for looking!








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Ryan_M View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan_M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2013 at 11:50pm
I have a similar trailer in similar condition that I would like to overhaul as well. I'll be watching this thread closely.
'49 CJ3A
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'42 Willys MB-T
'47 Bantam T3-C
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 48cj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar. 2013 at 11:58pm
Congrats - Looks like a nice candidate.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2013 at 12:04am
if your looking for advice i would say start by sand blasting the whole thing and getting the rot out then assess the situation.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2013 at 1:29am
Those wheels appear to be mid 70's Mopar to me. Trailer is a nice project. I like your plans for it.
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wmshay6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2013 at 6:23pm
Thanks for the input. 

My first step will be to pressure wash the thing as soon as the weather breaks.  Currently waiting on 10+ inches of wet snow here in MD, so it will be a little while yet.   Couple of Questions:

1) Does anyone think the wheels have any value or are they definitely not original as already pointed out?

2) looking at the tailgate and floor pics- can that rot be repaired or would I be better off having new parts worked in?  I've never done this before so not sure and looking for input from those with more experience.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2013 at 7:11pm
anything is saveable it just depends how much work your willing to do. you could buy new for much easier but if you want to save it you can blast it down and work in both new metal with the old, some places will most likely have to be replaced.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wmshay6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr. 2013 at 9:08pm
Finally got started on the thing . . . After going round and round with PennDOT and Maryland MVA about title issues.

Pulled the fenders and they are in good shape.   Most of the bolts snapped, but no biggie. Upon closer inspection, there was a lot more rot than i was comfortable with, so i made the decision to separate the tub and frame to facilitate restoration. So with grinder in hand, i swallowed hard and got to work. One side of the bed had already rusted away from the tub for the most part. Many grinding discs later . .







The floor was mostly rusted free and i only had to cut a couple of spot welds and it came right out. Of course after the floor was out, the sides had mostly rusted loose too so I worked them off gently. The overall frame is ok, but there are a few spots that are really rotten that will require patching. Due to all of the rot i didn't feel bad about cutting the tub free. I plan to restore the frame and tub separately for convenience and budget, then marry them again at some point.

I'll update as i make progress, but it's gonna be a slow , as time and funds allow, type project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wmshay6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2014 at 3:27pm
so I'm back a year later. frame blasted-yuck:



first stop is getting the frame right. not sure about my skills on welding the sheet metal in the tub. Two qyestions:

1) does anyone have images of the artwork for the tailgate?   I would like to put a vinyl repro decaal on the gate when I'm done.

2) does anyone know if / where CAD drawings might be available for body panels? not sure on my fab skills and I have access to CAD plasma for next 16 weeks if I could find CAD files, I could fab new panels. doubt they're out there though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Randy Snyder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2014 at 4:40pm
Chris,

For your stencils, checkout Art's website on the Bantam trailers.
http://www.bantamt3c.com/bantamstencils.htm

For drawings of trailer pieces, you can checkout Jeepdraw.  They are covering the WWII trailers but many pieces are the same or with slight modification.
http://www.jeepdraw.com/

Randy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wmshay6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2014 at 3:21pm
Thanks Randy- emailed the guy at Jeep Draw a couple of times and no response, but will keep trying.

At this point, I have decided on a resto mod and not a fully accurate restoration, though I am trying to stay close to original. The main body panels are pretty far gone, so will be repaired, if not accurately reproduced. I will fab a new back gate I think. But will keep the exxisting rotten gate for future changes or restoration.

Will post some pictures of current progress later.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2014 at 3:48pm
Originally posted by Wmshay6 Wmshay6 wrote:

.....1) does anyone have images of the artwork for the tailgate?   I would like to put a vinyl repro decaal on the gate when I'm done......
Here is a pdf file of the decal I found on the back of my Spen:
 
it is full size if you print it on 11 x 17 paper.  Your vinyl guy should be able to use the pdf file.
 
Your Spen is the first one I've seen with a ribbed floor.  Does it still have the landing foot?  Do you have a title?  if so, what number is it?
 
Congrats on a great find
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wmshay6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2014 at 3:54pm
Here's a few photos. Welded in some frame patches and a bracket for R/S tail light. The original on L/S is 3/16" - didn't have any 3/16" so had to use 1/4". I think it will be plenty sturdy!

Next up is to work on the hubs. get rid of the flash rust. Then prime and paint:




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2014 at 3:59pm

You may find it easier to reproduce the damaged panels in their entirety  rather than to weld in patches and have to deal with the welding shrinkage/warping on flat steel. Even the frame is all simple bends from what I can see. Make your seams between new and old metal at a bend, with a butt weld, and you will have a lot less work making it look good. 

The floor pan is going to be tricky if you want to keep the ribs.   Here's a couple videos about what happens in a bead roller if you choose to do it that way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XBxVtocDqc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTjPZ9ljZ10


The big panel makers use something more like a Pullmax power hammer to do the same process without warping the rest of the sheet as much. If you have any sheet metal shops around you might try asking if they are capable of building you a flat floor panel with ribs.

And then there is the guy from South America who makes VW bus floor pans with all the ribs with hand tools.. I can't find the video now but it is impressive. He hits a shaped chisel with a hammer, forming ribs hammer blow by hammer blow.

If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2014 at 4:11pm
I don't know that I'd worry about the ribs in the floor pan.  As I said earlier, my Spen had a flat piece of 14 gauge steel for a floor pan:
 
 .... could have been replaced at some time IDK but so does CHARLIE JEEP's:
 
 
Louie Larson's does as well but I did not see his before he restored it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2014 at 4:20pm
Just go a  bit thicker than stock with the flat and it will do the same job..I would bet the original trailer floor was no more than 18 gage but a 14 or even 16 might suffice.  I had that in my original post but lost it when the Net went down. (Only took about 30 min to post that simple post..EmbarrassedLOL )
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wmshay6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2014 at 5:15pm
The floor panel will be 1/8'" flat- which is heavier than what is there now- about 10.5 gauge. Not worrying about the beads. I plan to bend some 1/8" flat into a 2x3 "L" shape. This will allow a 3" tall piece to weld to good metal on the side panels. The 2" flat will support the edges of the floor pan & provide a solid mounting point through which I can bolt the bed back onto the frame like a 416. I chose 2" because the tops of the frame rails are 2" wide. I know as I had to cut out and patch several in to get the frame back in shape.

This project is being done entirely by me- with 0 fabrication skills. I took a basic welding class in the fall and am now taking an advanced class- this is my project for that class. I am by no means a world class welder or fabricator, but my skills are getting better. I like to think of myself as an advanced novice.   That, and it should be a great source of pride when done- even if not entirely "accurate".

Thanks for all of the feedback - keep it coming

Edited by Wmshay6 - 26 Feb. 2014 at 5:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb. 2014 at 5:17pm
Sounds like you got it covered....post ups some more in progress shots as you get them.
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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