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"one piece at a time"

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Doodledad View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doodledad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2017 at 1:35am
Looking real good great metalwork!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2017 at 1:39am
Originally posted by leecarr leecarr wrote:

Nice work on those floor braces, did you bend them up yourself with that break in the background on the floor?

Thanks. 

No - I had a local shop bend them up. They bent up two sizes. 34 feet worth for $155. It just wasn't worth the time for me to bend them at that price! They do great work. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2017 at 1:40am
You did a lot of work on your tub in a short period of time,keep up the great work.Looking really good. Keep the picture coming.

Giles
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2017 at 1:45am
Originally posted by Gil Gil wrote:

You did a lot of work on your tub in a short period of time,keep up the great work.Looking really good. Keep the picture coming.

Giles

Thanks. Hope to be in paint at the end of the month! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2017 at 3:02am
Well it's been a bit since I updated. We had a couple weeks where I was traveling pretty extensively. But, I've still been chipping away. The body has been on and off probably ten times for mock up.

As most of the underside is custom, i ran into a few issues. I thought i accounted for everything. I measured a million times. But.....I neglected to account for the clutch arm travel/throw. So i had to section and cap my floor brace. Not a big deal. Just a time consuming mistake. 

Also, being a man of....um....generous proportions....I wasn't feeling the seat mount just relying on the sheet metal of the floor pan. So i added a brace to better support the seat mount. 

All the extra holes in the dash are welded up. I've added inserts into all the body mounts. The main four mounts, I added some washers to spread the load. All the body mounts are upgraded to accept a 3/8ths bolt. Overall, it should be pretty stout. 

Hope to get the body to the blaster this week. I'm anxious to start the finish bodywork in prep for paint. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2017 at 4:42am
Your doing really nice work,keep the picture coming.    

Giles
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2017 at 10:12pm
Well.....just got my estimate from the blaster. Ouch. $1000 or $1350 with a coat of epoxy primer. He'd be blasting the tub, fenders, hood, grill and windshield frame - the whole body. 

Am I nuts to be considering this? I'd love to start fresh and clean. But that's a lot of $$$. 

What would you do? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doodledad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 12:25am
I don't recommend sandblasting old body steel. It can be very bad on the steel. Chemical strip is the best or some other form like shells or baking soda. The key is it MUST be primered immediately after. Not next week or ???. Bare metal is a very touchy deal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 12:44am
I sand blasted everything. I shopped around because I had some quote $1000 and some around $250. The cheapest guy knew what he was doing: used fine sand and not too much pressure. He did every inch, even under the dash cowling. I couldnt be more happy, and it only cost $250. My suggestion is shop around some more. If that is the cheapest price, I'd still do it because you will be very pleased working with bare metal for repairs, mods, etc. I've never chem stripped anything this big, but it sounds like a lot of work and hazardous materials to deal with.

As for the epoxy primer, I don't know that you need it. I used POR 15 on the frame and axles. I Used regular primer and single stage paint, then a clear coat. All the paint and materials for it only cost $350. I primered and painted it myself. Never had any experience, but it turned out great. I would do the same thing again. I think you will be happy in the long run...if you can get over that $1000 hurdle. I know that's pricey, but you shouldn't ever have to do it again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 2:06am
Thanks for the replies guys. 

I've used this guy for years. He's done all my motorcycle tins over the years. The frame on my crawler was done by him 20+ years ago and I still am amazed at how tough the primer is on the frame. He does great work and i trust his crew. 

I should have been more specific in that he will either use walnut shell or his dustless blaster water jet thingy. 

My biggest concern is the old blue paint. It was laid on so thick that it's chipping and flaking in the few places it remains. I'm concerned i won't be able to remove it from all the nooks and crannies. Secondly I'm worried about painting over it. I think it's a lacquer. I'd hate to have the new paint lift. 

I've painted a few motorcycles. With some some help also painted my son's YJ. I believe I can do a decent job if i have a decent base to work with.

Anyway....I guess I've answered my own question now haven't I. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 3:33am
Man, that's a tough one... i'm gonna fall back on the least sensical  criteria ... if youre going to keep it long enough to amortize it out i'd do it.  It stands to reason you may not make it back, but if it's never for sale that really doesn't mean anything, does it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 10:53am
[QUOTE=mbullism]Man, that's a tough one... i'm gonna fall back on the least sensical  criteria ... if youre going to keep it long enough to amortize it out i'd do it.  It stands to reason you may not make it back, but if it's never for sale that really doesn't mean anything, does it?[/QUOTE

I doubt it would ever be for sale. Maybe end up in one of the kid's garages someday. But for sale - not very likely. So that's a valid point.

In the event I ever did sell, I think I'd be ok. At the end of the day, I estimate to be into this for $7500-$8000 complete. I see well done Willys selling well above that. Overall, I believe I'd be fine. 

I did some study on the economics of it (as if there is such a things with Jeeps) I have $1208 invested in the tub at this point. That's all the metal, parts and even a few bucks added for consumables. So if i were to go full hog and blast with primer, I'd land at $2558 - still ahead of the game, slightly, when compared to a new tub/body kit.

That makes me feel a little better about dropping the coin. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 11:43am
Lol... it's a good thing you work cheap ;)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 4:37pm
Originally posted by mbullism mbullism wrote:

Lol... it's a good thing you work cheap ;)

At the pace I work, if I invoiced my labor hours, the jeep would be worth 4 million dollars.....Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 5:46pm
Originally posted by nofender nofender wrote:

At the pace I work, if I invoiced my labor hours, the jeep would be worth 4 million dollars.....Smile

So sayeth one, so sayeth us all, lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leecarr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 6:19pm
Originally posted by nofender nofender wrote:

Originally posted by mbullism mbullism wrote:

Lol... it's a good thing you work cheap ;)


At the pace I work, if I invoiced my labor hours, the jeep would be worth 4 million dollars.....Smile


Only 4 million, you do work cheap. Over the past 40+ years my "free" work would probably let me retire quite comfortably.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 6:51pm
I'm an old DIY'er from 'way back. I've had to DIY a lot of things because I couldn't aford to pay to have it done. I think if I was quoted $1,000 to sand-blast a body, the next quote I got would be on a blaster.    BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2017 at 7:05pm
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

I'm an old DIY'er from 'way back. I've had to DIY a lot of things because I couldn't aford to pay to have it done. I think if I was quoted $1,000 to sand-blast a body, the next quote I got would be on a blaster.    BW

now that's funny right there! Currently pricing a bigger compressor and a blast set up.

great minds and all....
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