Original vs Omix-ADA radiator |
Post Reply | Page <123> |
Author | ||
dluber
Member Joined: 24 May 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 817 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Hey Stan, Thanks for the video and I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out for you. Dave
|
||
aboyandhisdog
Member Joined: 10 June 2011 Location: Fort Collins Status: Offline Points: 465 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Stan, any chance your temp gauge could be bad?
|
||
smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Don’t think so. I’ve changed it out twice and checked it with an infrared thermometer. Gauge reads what the thermometer reads. I wish it were that. I have had this issue with two different engines. The common denominator has been the original radiator. Well at least one of the common denominators. If this replacement performs well, then I might pony up the money for a rod job or a recore on my original. Then again I might just run this one forever. I am pretty cheap and pretty lazy,
|
||
aboyandhisdog
Member Joined: 10 June 2011 Location: Fort Collins Status: Offline Points: 465 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Thrifty, maybe...lazy, no way!
|
||
Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Stan,
I was hoping you would break down and try this before I had to. Done all the same things you have and she still runs hot. For the price, I was contemplating the Omix over taking it to a radiator shop. Now, I’m leaning more towards the Omix as a last resort. Don’t like how it is not st up for the shroud extension and wonder if one would even fit. Don’t like how the upper connection is not as original and no place for the felt. Thanks for bitting the bullet and giving us a review. Don’t forget Omix does a rebate. I saved up $800 in receipts for all the junk I bought last year. Then I realized you have only 60 days to send it in. Oh well.
Micah
|
||
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
||
smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I got the radiator installed. It fit fine.
The shroud was a little close to the fan at the bottom. That got me looking around a little and I found a broken motor mount. I ordered some new motor mounts. When they arrived I put a couple of washers on top of them to try and move the fan up a little. Seemed to make a little more clearance for the fan. With the upper water neck being straight rather than angled like the original my top radiator hose wouldn’t reach. I had tilted the original radiator towards the engine a little trying to get the fan closer and then had to trim the hose a little so now with the new rad it wouldn’t reach. I wanted onother straight hose, but Napa wanted 40 bucks for the straight hose they had, so I settled for a flex hose from Autozone for about $7. Doesn’t look terrible, but I don’t really like flex hoses. For some reason, the top felt piece doesn’t really cover the gap. I filled it up with some coolant and fired it up, pulled the throttle out a little to try and get it warmed up. It went up to 160 degrees (same as the thermostat) and stayed there. I wasn’t surprised because the ambient temp today was in the upper 30s. I thought I would try and test it a little and put a cardboard in front of the rad covering up about 2/3 of it. I then let it run for about 29 minutes with the throttle pulled out a little while I cleaned up the garage some. Temp gauge still never went over 160. So I guess we’ll see when the temps heat up. |
||
Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Stan,
Thanks again for all the work to do a review. For your radiator hose, here is a link to the Gates site: I got a good price on the upper straight hose section from Rock Auto. Micah
|
||
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
||
bobevans
Member Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
160 degrees and no more? Great. Maybe the heating problem is gone.
|
||
'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
||
smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
|
|
I thought I would do a little update here since Micah asked on another thread.
So far the Omix radiator has been doing well as far as keeping things cool. I do not think I have driven in adverse enough conditions to give a real accurate review of how it will perform in very hot, Moab summer over 100 degree like conditions. I ran it all day long the other day in Sand Hollow and the temp gauge never got above 160; but it was a cool March day, probably in the low 50s and it rained most of the day. So not a real difinative test. A negative on this radiator is the filler neck. The neck is a little bit tight for the standard radiator cap. When I went to check the coolant level before my trip to Sand Hollow, I could not get the cap off. The metal edge of the center part of the cap was catching on the side of the neck and would not come out. It was digging into the aluminum of the neck. I used my bubba skills and stuck a screwdriver between the neck and the metal center of the cap thinking that the metal disk of the cap would calapse and release it, but no! The soft aluminum of the neck distorted and bent out of shape. By the time I got the pieces of the cap out, the neck was pretty distorted. I wish i would have taken some pictures, but I didn’t. I managed to bend the thing mostly back into shape, but the new cap I put on there also seems to be stuck. I did run it that way without issue, but checking the coolant level may be an issue.i don’t want to bend the neck and sealing surfaces up any more than I already have.
|
||
AKoller
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2018 Location: Moundridge Kans Status: Offline Points: 652 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Stan, can you set it up with a small overflow tank of some kind so you don't have to pull the radiator cap to do a quick check of the fluid level?
|
||
1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1 1942 GPW #70221 |
||
smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
The filler neck on this Omix radiator was giving me such a pain that I took the radiator to the shop and had a new steel neck put on it. I am very happy with it now.
I ran the Jeep in Moab in upper 90 degree temps and had zero cooling issues. This is with no scroud extension and without the flaps around the radiator. Bottom line, this radiator works well but is not a perfect fit and the filler neck is a weak point.
|
||
VermontOverland
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2019 Location: Placitas, NM Status: Offline Points: 27 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Recent engine rebuild (spun a rod bearing) and rad recore on my '53 3B. While it's running between 180-200 on the road, off-road it's creeping up to 220 and over. Was running hotter on the road, but I removed the T-stat. Living in the SW now, didn't think I'd need it. Any issues with removing same? Ordered the O-A rad as well.
Other issue is not nearly as much top-end power as the pre-rebuild motor. Same carb and other ancillaries. Almost a bit sputtery and hesitant in third gear going uphill. Any thoughts? Lastly, any recommendations on a good place to buy a new fuel gauge sending unit (usual in-tank float sender)? Thx for another great thread, Stan!
|
||
Peter Vollers
|
||
VermontOverland
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2019 Location: Placitas, NM Status: Offline Points: 27 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Anyone have any experience with these rads?
|
||
Peter Vollers
|
||
aboyandhisdog
Member Joined: 10 June 2011 Location: Fort Collins Status: Offline Points: 465 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
That one seems to have the same issue as Stan's did with the top hose coming out at 90 degrees instead of angled. You might look at this one if you are looking for bottom mount: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Full-Aluminum-Radiator-for-Jeep-Willys-41-52-3-Rows-48-49-50-51-Manual/172327427901?hash=item281f83df3d:g:pEIAAOSwFV9XyRhg I didn't see any side mount rads, but I would think they are out there. Ebay has a ton of rads available. I bought my bottom mount there a few years ago, had zero fit issues, and am very happy with the performance.
|
||
VermontOverland
Member Joined: 04 Nov. 2019 Location: Placitas, NM Status: Offline Points: 27 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Thx, Tom. The radiator express rad is side mount and seems to match my existing rad perfectly. Thx for the ebay link too.
|
||
Peter Vollers
|
||
Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
You should NEVER run an engine without a thermostat.
Do you have the felt around the radiator? Do you have a fan shroud? Do you have a fan shroud extender? Is your fan bent? What is your timing set at? Micah
|
||
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
||
Rick G
Member Joined: 17 May 2015 Location: Amarillo, TX Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Micah,
Why should you NEVER run an engine without a thermostat?
|
||
Anvil
Member Joined: 07 June 2017 Location: Colorado Status: Offline Points: 326 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I wouldn't say never, but generally, it's twofold: if you don't let the engine get hot enough, besides not running optimally, you can collect condensation in the engine that won't steam off. In colder climes it's a big deal and you'll often see that chocolate milk look on your oil filler cap. Secondly, the coolant system is designed for a restriction to slow the flow of coolant down so that there is some latency and the coolant has time to absorb the heat from the engine and subsequently lose the heat passing through the radiator. Without that restriction the flow of coolant can be too fast to do either. The old trick was to drill a hole through the outer rim of the thermostat if you needed more flow. All that said, if you're overheating, it is almost always something other than your thermostat. You can tell if your thermostat is working once the engine reaches temperature if you have water flowing through your radiator. You can check it on the stove by immersing it hot water and checking with a thermometer. Thermostats are cheap and easy to replace so they usually get the blame, but IME, they're rarely the root cause of overheating.
|
||
Post Reply | Page <123> |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |