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Rebuild of J176350

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otto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2017 at 1:02pm
That is fantastic! You should most definitely buy a lottery ticket Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2017 at 1:38pm
Mike, that is lucky indeed...roughly 30 miles if my conversion math is right. Nice little day trip...maybe you can get a factory tour to boot.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2017 at 3:29pm
I would get my arse over there, pronto, before that middle manager's boss finds out and puts the kaibash on the whole thing Wink

(...and x2 on the lottery ticket LOL )
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2017 at 10:31pm
Agreed! Hurry up and get there before someone changes their mind!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2017 at 6:44pm
I just got  back from Roseburg with a replacement  block (a 300 mile drive) and dropped the block off at the machine shop. Crossing my fingers that this time things go a little  better. Seller claims it's standard bore,  but we'll see. It has a serial # of RJ280701. 

Edit: serial number  


Edited by otto - 11 July 2017 at 7:21pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2017 at 12:45am
I got a call from the machine shop today with an update on my engine. They took the block to another shop in Portland to have it pressure tested and to get a second opinion on the block's integrity. They are telling me I have a crack-free block. 😃 The second block measured at standard bore but it took a 0.040" cut to clean it up. They got me some 0.040" pistons to go with it. This is on their dime. 
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Thumbs Up
MIKE IN OREGON
President of Oregon Flat Fender Club.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Oregon-Flat-Fender-Club/222864787838570

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2017 at 11:14am
Originally posted by mike in oregon mike in oregon wrote:

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Aug. 2017 at 12:43pm
Awesome! Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct. 2017 at 9:49am

10/10/2017

 

I picked up the engine block from the machine shop today! Just to recap: the shop said they would stand behind the promise they made me to “take care of me” and they did. They hot-tanked and cleaned the replacement block, bored and honed 4 cylinders and supplied 0.040” over pistons and rings, decked the block, installed a new cam bearing, installed all new valve guides, ground the seats and threw in a Felpro gasket set. There were a couple of bad exhaust valve seats in the replacement block and they installed all four with hard seats because they said “it was the right thing to do” even though it wasn’t part of the original build. I believe the owner said it amounted to around $900 worth of work but today I picked it up at no charge.

This project has taken a lot longer than I had planned and took a few twists and turns along the way, but in the end I think I’m ending up with a better engine.

 

I also killed a mole in the back yard today! Not bad for a Tuesday.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 4:21pm


Awesome!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct. 2017 at 5:14pm


Good to have the block back home again. The cast iron got a coat of primer on the outside, everything else was painted already from the other build. This block has one head stud that has been oversized where the coarse threads screw into the block, but the stud above the deck is still 7/16". Haven't seen one of those before.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct. 2017 at 5:39pm
Those repair studs are not uncommon in the aluminum cases of VW air-cooled engines. Another fix for bad threads in the block/case are Case Savers. They are basically a bushing threaded on both the out side & inside diameters. The inside threads are the same as the original studs take, the outside threads are two sizes bigger. One has to drill & tap the bad hole to accommodate them. Both solutions work well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willy M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct. 2017 at 6:29pm
Those case savers sound like what I've always heard called heli-coils.  I've used them bunches of times when have to deal with bad threads.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct. 2017 at 10:44pm
Heli-coils don't have to be drilled two sizes bigger to use them.  The "case saver" sounds like a larger item. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct. 2017 at 1:53am
I should have also mentioned Heli-coils in my first post. Sorry.

Mike is correct, I have used both Heli-coils & Case Savers. Heli-coils are made like a tightly wound spring, while Case Savers are more like a bushing. Heli-coils do indeed use a smaller hole than does the Case Savers.

IME, all three of these work well. Heli-coils are the most readily available. Yet, one needs to buy a kit that will include a special tap & the drill needed for it along with five Heli-coils. If you need seven of them, you get to buy five more. Case Savers use standard taps & drills. Back when I used to buy them one could buy just one of them. Those stepped studs are usually made in a machine shop & are expensive because of the labor costs.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willy M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct. 2017 at 11:42am
I'd never heard of Case Savers before but if sounds to me like that if there's enough room around the stripped hole for a Case Saver, it would be the better option over the heli coils that I'm very familiar with.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff_Davis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct. 2017 at 11:14pm
Never seen the "Case Saver" brand, but I have successfully used a product called E-Z Lok (www.ezlok.com) , to restore stripped 7/16-14 holes for the head studs. They do require a bigger threaded hole than helicoils, but I like the robust nature of the E-Z Lok's carbon steel. You don't need to remove the engine and they use standard taps and tools.

I used different diameters and length of E-Z Lok's, depending on damage done and how much block material there was to work with. I fit them to be flush or slightly below the deck as I wasn't going to have the block planed:
E-Z Lok 319-7 7/16-14 inner x 9/16-12 outer x 9/16" long and 329-7 which is 7/16-14 inner 5/8-11 outer x 21/32 long.

Get a good quality bottoming tap for threading the block. Install the E-Z Lok first with permatex #2, then the stud with more #2. They come with a locking compound on them, but I opted to remove it and use #2.

I got mine from Zoro Tool, but I just Googled them and they now have them on Amazon, and some sizes on Flea Bay. Zore Tool had good deals on both taps I needed, too.

How'd they work..? Well, I replaced 3 bad holes and all I can say is there are no leaks or complaints so far.
Jeff
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