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Replacing Fuel Filter

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GreenhornCJ View Drop Down
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    Posted: 21 Sep. 2017 at 4:15am
A while back I posted that my CJ2A would run for a while but then would start jerking upon acceleration or when under the load of an incline.  It would stop.  Start up again and start jerking and stop.  With suggestions from this group I first replaced the inline fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump. That didn't do it.  Then it was suggested that the condensor could be bad.  I changed that out and still it did the same thing.  Upon initial start it would run for about a half mile and then starts jerking and sputtering.  I don't have a pressure gauge but I disconnected the hose to the carb and had my son turn over the engine. The flow of gas seemed weak.  I ordered a new fuel pump but my problem now is I am now not sure how to remove the old fuel pump.

A previous owner had installed a Franz type by-pass oil filter and I noticed that a rubber hose runs from the oil canister to the right hand "bolt" of the fuel pump.  Is that a hollow bolt?  Do I remove it and reuse like any other bolt or connector?  In the first photo you see the hose from the Franz filter canister going underneath the fuel pump. In the second photo you see how that hose connect to an input to the crankcase where the right hand bolt of the fuel pump should be.  Is there anything I should be aware of in removing that oil input connector?  Also, how do you get access to the left side bolt of the fuel pump? The engine brace seems to be in the way.
Thanks for any suggestions and advice.


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cpt logger View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2017 at 5:13am
I hate to hear about folks that replace part after part before they find their problem. That can get expensive fast! Lets try to find the issue before you replace each part one at a time. Lets just replace the actual bad part. So far you have replaced the condenser & the fuel filter to no effect. How much did they cost in time & money?

Before you remove the pump, check all of the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank to the fuel pump. Especially if they are "rubber". They can fail and act like a check valve, or they can collapse under suction.

Try this, use a lawn mower, or boat fuel tank instead of the Jeeps tank. If that cures the issue, your pump is good.

Just for grins, try running the Jeep until it quits. Then listen closely while you remove the gas cap. if you hear a sucking noise, your vent is plugged. Or you could just try driving the Jeep with the cap off. If this cures your problem, look at the fuel tank venting system.

Is there any possibility that there is some crud in the tank? Could it be blocking the fuel line going to the pump? A ping pong ball comes to mind. This trick was popular when I was in high school. It caused your exact symptoms.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.


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JeepSaffer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2017 at 8:13am
Cpt Logger is right, and I would support what he says.


But to directly answer your questions, your second photo does indeed seem to show the oil line returning through the right hand bolt of the fuel pump, but this is definitely not stock. Your oil return should connect to a fitting just below and forward of the fuel pump. So you should be able to remove the fuel pump (if you determine that this is your problem) without messing with the oil system. If you do remove the fuel pump, I recommend you returning it to the way it is meant to be.



Now, to remove the fuel pump: The rear bolt is easy, the forward one is tricky - there is not much room in there, but it can be done. Removing the drivers side fender will help. Some folks have replaced it with a cap bolt so that it can be turned with an allen key. But you will most likely just have to fiddle away with a spanner or socket, whichever you can fit in there.

Good luck.

Mike



Edited by JeepSaffer - 21 Sep. 2017 at 8:20am
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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cpt logger View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2017 at 7:44pm
Heck, I use a 1/4" drive, universal six point Snap-On socket on both of those. IIRC, Those bolts have a 9/16" head.

As I am sure that you-all are aware, there are many thoughts on "stock" verses"modified. Some folks just have to have everything stock. Some folks want the "best way", what ever that is. Then there are some who want it to work well. They are more open to odd ball stuff.

I fit in the last catagory. If it were my Jeep, unless there is a good reason to go back to stock, I would use what you have. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. You can open a big can of worms changing things from what works.

Again, IHTH, Cpt Logger.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep. 2017 at 4:32am
I replaced that forward bolt (1/2" socket, BTW) with a 5/16-24 socket head bolt.  Now, the problem is, my Allen wrench that fits it is too long to fit in between the bolt and the fender after it's loosened a few turns.  Why doesn't someone make a ball-end Allen wrench that's not 6" long??
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep. 2017 at 8:01am
Originally posted by cpt logger cpt logger wrote:

Some folks just have to have everything stock. Some folks want the "best way", what ever that is. Then there are some who want it to work well. They are more open to odd ball stuff.

...........

If it were my Jeep, unless there is a good reason to go back to stock, I would use what you have.

Each to his own, but what I was trying to point out to Greenhorn was that the way his oil return line is plumbed at the moment is definitely not how it left the factory, which was one of his queries/concerns. Returning filtered oil to the pan through one of the fuel pump bolt holes, leaving the fuel pump only being properly held by 1 bolt, hardly seems a clever modification, especially since there is a port for this purpose not more than 4" away, which presumably would have been blanked off with a plug.

I am not suggesting a museum restoration is always the only way to go, but this seems one instance when returning it to how it should be would be the smart way to do it.

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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep. 2017 at 4:49pm
Originally posted by JeepSaffer JeepSaffer wrote:

Originally posted by cpt logger cpt logger wrote:

Some folks just have to have everything stock. Some folks want the "best way", what ever that is. Then there are some who want it to work well. They are more open to odd ball stuff.

...........

If it were my Jeep, unless there is a good reason to go back to stock, I would use what you have.

Each to his own, but what I was trying to point out to Greenhorn was that the way his oil return line is plumbed at the moment is definitely not how it left the factory, which was one of his queries/concerns. Returning filtered oil to the pan through one of the fuel pump bolt holes, leaving the fuel pump only being properly held by 1 bolt, hardly seems a clever modification, especially since there is a port for this purpose not more than 4" away, which presumably would have been blanked off with a plug.

I am not suggesting a museum restoration is always the only way to go, but this seems one instance when returning it to how it should be would be the smart way to do it.

0.02 Big smile


Like you said, to each his/her own. My theory is that it has worked for how many decades? If it were going to be a problem it would have been one before this. Of course, YMMV.

Like you, I would never have done this "modification" as the port is so close.

If the OP decides to go back to stock, they need to be sure that the restricting fitting in the by-pass oil filter system is not in that special hollow fuel pump bolt. Otherwise, they risk losing oil pressure to the main bearings! Which is bad, very bad! This is an example of that can of worms I was talking about.

My $0.03 Big smile Inflation!Smile
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