Sealing the transfer case yoke? |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2383 |
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Posted: 17 May 2017 at 1:51pm |
I am working (again) on the rear output seal on the transfer case. This is on a stock 1948 CJ2A. I am getting a drip of gear oil at the bottom of the parking brake backing plate. It is leaking just a little bit when just parked. Leaks more when driven and leaves a little pool when stopped. - So I think it is the Yoke.
Ideas?
Last week when I did this job here is what I did: - Cleaned and sealed (Permitex) the bolts that hold the e brake backing plate on. - Remove the old seal and cleaned the housing, put sealant (Permitex) on the outer edge of the new seal and installed it. - Put a little grease on the rubber of the seal. - Put some sealant (Permitex) on the last 1/2 inch of the inner spline of the Yoke. Tightened the yoke and filled the case. Drip, Drip, Drip. . My plan is to repeat this process but replace the yoke with one that has been polished. Other ideas. Edited by Stev - 17 May 2017 at 1:56pm |
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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mike in oregon
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 17 Jan. 2008 Location: Fall Creek Or Status: Offline Points: 1988 |
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If I remember right there is suppose to be copper washers on some of the bolts holding the backing plate on and not lock washers. These bolts or a least one of the go into the TC housing sump and will leak oil out of a lock washer. I also spray some sealer on both sides of your shims behind that output housing. Maybe you can remove the brake drum clean everything good and let it sit long enough to see were the oil is coming from. Good luck.
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MIKE IN OREGON
President of Oregon Flat Fender Club. http://www.facebook.com/pages/Oregon-Flat-Fender-Club/222864787838570 46 CJ2A 38007 46 CJ2A 79863 BANTAM T3-C 25314 |
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Oilleaker1
Member Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4405 |
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I've read where some guys put two seals in the seal bore. Check your yoke surface for a groove . Ron F. Sells a double lip seal also. Besides putting sealant on the inner yoke splines, I've had luck putting permatex #2 under the washer the nut tightens against to hold the yoke on. Those shims are a pain. Too much sealant and your bearing end float is changed. We all know your pain! Oilly
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11173 |
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If it started leaking immediately after your initial repair, I would not suspect the yoke and seal. Even if the yoke needs replaced, the seal should hold up for at least a day. That being said, X2 on replacing the yoke (if that is where it is leaking). Everyone's experience is different but in mine, If there is any blemish that would need a polishing, the seal won't hold up unless you replace the yoke or put a speedy sleeve on it. Mileage may vary. One time I was in a hurry so I put a shim behind the seal to get it to ride on a clean surface on the yoke. Just my experience.
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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What everyone else says, and it sounds like you are doing things mostly correct.
Take a close look at your yoke surface - if it is not new, look for pits or a groove. This might be fixable with polishing or a speedi-sleeve. The use of permatex is good in the right places, but remember that permatex will not stick properly to a surface that is already oily. So before you apply it to the splines or yoke, make sure these are squeaky clean. I even cleaned mine with methanol to get all traces of oil off. Same with the bolts - both the bolt threads and the hole threads need to really clean. On the shaft splines and yoke splines, I applied a tiny bit of sealant to both surfaces before re-assembly. Then all you are relying on is the fresh sealant to meld into each other, but the application to each surface can be visually confirmed on each. If you only apply to one surface, you are relying on the sealant bridging any gap and properly coating the mating splines. I don't know if I went overboard, but I like that fact that I could verify proper and even coating of EACH surface independently before they went back together. So far, no leaks on mine. Good luck.
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Unkamonkey
Member Joined: 23 Mar. 2016 Location: Greeley CO Status: Offline Points: 2093 |
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I suppose you need to tell if there is grease in the parking brake shoes or if it is leaking from ahead of it from where the shims are.
2 different fixes. I'm sure that you have read that these things always leak, somewhere... |
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uncamonkey
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2383 |
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Great Ideas! I will give it try again later today. The drip did not appear for about 12 hours after the work was done. The just a constant drip ever 15 minutes or so. I have 4 miles on the seal - so if the drip is coming off of the face of the seal just might replace the Yoke. Otherwise I am will replace the Yoke, and seal, put flat washer on the backing plate bolts, Clean the threads and bolts again and reseal everything. We will see if it is dripping on Saturday at the 25th Spring Reunion in Indiana.
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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cal.bar
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2016 Location: So. Cal. Status: Offline Points: 752 |
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Given that the drip is constant and occurs while the vehicle is sitting, I would focus on the lower seals. Mine still drips a few drops after running,(even after a rebuild) but then stops. I would think that means that an upper seal perhaps is the culprit since the oil falls to the bottom of the pan etc. after you stop driving.
Pretty sure the oil will not stay up in the splines etc. after stopping. It would drip down. Certainly not enough would stay up to cause constant leaking.
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jeeper50
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2008 Location: Spanish Fort AL Status: Offline Points: 2579 |
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Also a good idea to put a very thin layer of #2 permatex on the shims oil will leak between then and cause a leak too, as mentioned earlier use care not to put too much between the shims or you can change the endplay but just a smear will stop a leak there. spray with copper would work too. but to help isolate a leak spray suspect area with brake cleaner then grab a beer and watch for the new drip, be patient it will come might take several beers- oh darn!
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Belleview ol skool winch soon. '48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement |
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Gil
Member Joined: 29 July 2016 Location: N.B.Canada. Status: Offline Points: 975 |
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I had the same problem with my transfer case seal leaking just a little drip a the beginning of the rebuild and I was told by a Guy that works on restoring jeep not to fill the transfer case up to the top,just to fill it up about 3/8" below the plug and to use half and half 80w-90 Lucas gear oil and 80w-90 regular gear oil.So I drained the transfer case and refilled with 50/50 mix .That is what I did and I have over 200 miles since with no leaks.
Giles. |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2383 |
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Update - So far so good. It has been seven hours and no leaking.
I polished the yoke with 2,000 grit sand paper and some oil. The cleaned the splines carefully and applied a heavy coat of Permitex to them and the washer. Also put a light coat of grease on the yoke surface that interfaces the rubber portion of the seal. Again - so far so good - we will see if it is leaking at the 25th Reunion on Saturday morning when it gets take out of the box trailer.
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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Stev
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2383 |
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Sunday after returning from the 25th reunion it was leaking again. At the reunion I purchased a new yoke. I just replaced the output shaft yoke with the new one. Filled it again.
The good thing in this is that the transfer case has been really flushed 3x. |
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3422 |
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Glad to hear you got it fixed. Sorry I couldn't make it to the reunion to meet you Bob and see your Jeep.
Have you ever tried speedi-sleeves on old seal surfaces? I like them and they wear better than the original shafts. You can even make them if you have access to a lathe. I made one for my PTO rear gear box shaft after seeing the price of that size was so much more than the size that the yokes use. Jim |
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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