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Sealing the transfer case yoke?

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Stev View Drop Down
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    Posted: 17 May 2017 at 1:51pm
I am working (again) on the rear output seal on the transfer case.   This is on a stock 1948 CJ2A.  I am getting a drip of gear oil at the bottom of the parking brake backing plate.  It is leaking just a little bit when just parked.  Leaks more when driven and leaves a little pool when stopped.  - So I think it is the Yoke.

Ideas?

Last week when I did this job here is what I did:

- Cleaned and sealed (Permitex) the bolts that hold the e brake backing plate on.
- Remove the old seal and cleaned the housing, put sealant (Permitex) on the outer edge of the new seal and  installed it.
- Put a little grease on the rubber of the seal.
- Put some sealant (Permitex) on the last 1/2 inch of the inner spline of the Yoke.

Tightened the yoke and filled the case.

Drip, Drip, Drip.  .

My plan is to repeat this process but replace the yoke with one that has been polished. 

Other ideas.  

 



Edited by Stev - 17 May 2017 at 1:56pm
Stev
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike in oregon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2017 at 2:00pm
If I remember right there is suppose to be copper washers on some of the bolts holding the backing plate on and not lock washers. These bolts or a least one of the go into the TC housing sump and will leak oil out of a lock washer. I also spray some sealer on both sides of your shims behind that output housing.  Maybe you can remove the brake drum clean everything good and let it sit long enough to see were the oil is coming from. Good luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2017 at 2:06pm
I've read where some guys put two seals in the seal bore. Check your yoke surface for a groove . Ron F. Sells a double lip seal also. Besides putting sealant on the inner yoke splines, I've had luck putting permatex #2 under the washer the nut tightens against to hold the yoke on. Those shims are a pain. Too much sealant and your bearing end float is changed. We all know your pain! LOL Oilly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2017 at 2:34pm
If it started leaking immediately after your initial repair, I would not suspect the yoke and seal.  Even if the yoke needs replaced, the seal should hold up for at least a day.  That being said, X2 on replacing the yoke (if that is where it is leaking).  Everyone's experience is different but in mine, If there is any blemish that would need a polishing, the seal won't hold up unless you replace the yoke or put a speedy sleeve on it.  Mileage may vary.

One time I was in a hurry so I put a shim behind the seal to get it to ride on a clean surface on the yoke.  Just my experience.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2017 at 2:35pm
What everyone else says, and it sounds like you are doing things mostly correct.

Take a close look at your yoke surface - if it is not new, look for pits or a groove. This might be fixable with polishing or a speedi-sleeve.

The use of permatex is good in the right places, but remember that permatex will not stick properly to a surface that is already oily. So before you apply it to the splines or yoke, make sure these are squeaky clean. I even cleaned mine with methanol to get all traces of oil off. Same with the bolts - both the bolt threads and the hole threads need to really clean.

On the shaft splines and yoke splines, I applied a tiny bit of sealant to both surfaces before re-assembly. Then all you are relying on is the fresh sealant to meld into each other, but the application to each surface can be visually confirmed on each. If you only apply to one surface, you are relying on the sealant bridging any gap and properly coating the mating splines. I don't know if I went overboard, but I like that fact that I could verify proper and even coating of EACH surface independently before they went back together.

So far, no leaks on mine. Good luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2017 at 2:38pm
I suppose you need to tell if there is grease in the parking brake shoes or if it is leaking from ahead of it from where the shims are.
2 different fixes. I'm sure that you have read that these things always leak, somewhere...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2017 at 4:26pm
Great Ideas!  I will give it try again later today.

The drip did not appear for about 12 hours after the work was done.  The just a constant drip ever 15 minutes or so.   I have 4 miles on the seal - so if the drip is coming off of the face of the seal just might replace the Yoke. Otherwise I am will replace the Yoke, and seal, put flat washer on the backing plate bolts, Clean the threads and bolts again and reseal everything. 

We will see if it is dripping on Saturday at the 25th Spring Reunion in Indiana.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2017 at 11:07pm
Given that the drip is constant and occurs while the vehicle is sitting, I would focus on the lower seals.  Mine still drips a few drops after running,(even after a rebuild) but then stops. I would think that means that an upper seal perhaps is the culprit since the oil falls to the bottom of the pan etc. after you stop driving.
 
Pretty sure the oil will not stay up in the splines etc. after stopping.  It would drip down. Certainly not enough would stay up to cause constant leaking.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeeper50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2017 at 11:23pm
Also a good idea to put a very thin layer of #2 permatex on the shims oil will leak between then and cause a leak too, as mentioned earlier use care not to put too much between the shims or you can change the endplay but just a smear will stop a leak there. spray with copper would work too. but to help isolate a leak spray suspect area with brake cleaner then grab a beer and watch for the new drip, be patient it will come might take several beers- oh darn!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2017 at 2:07am
I had the same problem with my transfer case seal leaking just a little drip a the beginning of the rebuild and I was told by a Guy that works on restoring jeep not to fill the transfer case up to the top,just to fill it up about 3/8" below the plug and to use half and half 80w-90 Lucas gear oil and 80w-90 regular gear oil.So I drained the transfer case and refilled with 50/50 mix .That is what I did and I have over 200 miles since with no leaks.

Giles.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2017 at 1:25pm
Update - So far so good.  It has been seven hours and no leaking.

I polished the yoke with 2,000 grit sand paper and some oil.  The cleaned the splines carefully and applied a heavy coat of Permitex to them and the washer.  Also put a light coat of grease on the yoke surface that interfaces the rubber portion of the seal.

Again - so far so good - we will see if it is leaking at the 25th Reunion on Saturday morning when it gets take out of the box trailer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 3:23am
Sunday after returning from the 25th reunion it was leaking again.  At the reunion I purchased a new yoke.  I just replaced the output shaft yoke with the new one.  Filled it again.

The good thing in this is that the transfer case has been really flushed 3x.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 4:04pm
Glad to hear you got it fixed. Sorry I couldn't make it to the reunion to meet you Bob and see your Jeep.
Have you ever tried speedi-sleeves on old seal surfaces? I like them and they wear better than the original shafts. You can even make them if you have access to a lathe. I made one for my PTO rear gear box shaft after seeing the price of that size was so much more than the size that the yokes use.

    Jim
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