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Sheared engine mount bolt |
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m38mike 
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Joined: 23 Apr. 2007 Location: Colorado High Country Status: Offline Points: 3798 |
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 Topic: Sheared engine mount boltPosted: 07 July 2017 at 12:33am |
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I've recently developed a problem. Due to some unexpected rock bouncing in the Blue Mule recently I've sheared off one of two engine mount bolts on my motor left side. And with the supplemental bouncing I've begun to wallow out the remaining bolt hole.
 So my problem is how to get the sheared bolt out of the hole. I've only got about 2.5 inches of clearance between the stub of bolt and the motor mount on the frame. I'm not sure I can raise the engine enough to get room to drill a pilot hole for an easy-out. I'm thinking maybe the best way is to try to weld a bolt to the stub. But I'm looking for ideas to help me out. I think the threads in the upper hole will hold if I can get a good bolt into the lower hole too. |
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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Bruce W
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Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9651 |
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Posted: 07 July 2017 at 1:09am |
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"Try before you pry" That's one of the rules we use in patient extrication from auto accidents. Open the door if it will.
I would go after that broken bolt with a small cape chisel or center punch. Get on the outer edge and see if you can turn it out. It should not be bottomed in the hole, and there's no reason to believe that the threads are stripped or damaged. There's not much holding it. You might even be able to get aholt of it with a small pair of pliers or Vice-Grips (They're not all they're cracked up to be, if you use them, just use them as pliers, don't try to lock them on). Good Luck. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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baja 4
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Joined: 04 May 2010 Location: Falcon, Co. Status: Offline Points: 141 |
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Posted: 07 July 2017 at 4:08am |
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Bruce's suggestions would be my first choice. If that doesn't budge it, try welding a nut on it using the center of the nut to fill with welding wire. Then hopefully a wrench will turn it out.
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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Posted: 07 July 2017 at 2:30pm |
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If you have access to a dremel tool you could use a Cut off wheel and cut a nice clean deep screwdriver slot in the end of the bolt and with a stubby screw driver most likely just back it out.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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oldtime
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Posted: 07 July 2017 at 3:27pm |
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Slotting to fit a screwdriver is probably the best first attempt followed by a nut weld. Otherwise any further extraction issues become compounded. Another suggestion is to drill and bottom tap the upper bolt hole to the next oversize. That may possibly add the extra strength needed in case you need get by with single bolt mounting.
Edited by oldtime - 07 July 2017 at 3:31pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Joe Friday
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Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 26 Dec. 2010 Location: Jeep Central Status: Offline Points: 3654 |
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Posted: 07 July 2017 at 6:01pm |
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X2 on grinding a screw slot first.
It's probably too close for even a stubby screwdriver, so maybe a driver bit in a 1/4 drive ratchet. It 'should' come right out That upper bolt hole damage isn't new. The first time that mount loosened up was when it cracked the base of your fuel pump and dumped out all the oil on the trail as I recall. I think Bruce made your blockoff plate? |
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willys54wagon
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Joined: 24 July 2008 Location: Ames, IA Status: Offline Points: 1444 |
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Posted: 07 July 2017 at 7:49pm |
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Mike, are you going to have any creative breakdowns left for the fall color tour? Without your inspirational breakdowns, we will only have our own to think about on the long way home..................
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Two jeeps on the road, one is close and the rest are dreams.
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m38mike
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Joined: 23 Apr. 2007 Location: Colorado High Country Status: Offline Points: 3798 |
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Posted: 08 July 2017 at 12:25pm |
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Thanks to Mark W. I remembered that I do have a Dremmel cutoff wheel. It was the right tool for the job. Only my Dremmel has been dead for a few years now. Not to worry, I chucked up the wheel shaft in a regular drill and went to work. It cut the slot in less than a minute. And as Joe Friday alluded, it was too tight a spot even for my stubby screwdriver. So I got a flat tip bit and used that in my fingers to turn the sheared bolt all the way out of the hole. SUCCESS!!
I took the remaining good bolt to the hardware store to find a new pair of metric bolts to fill the holes. I noticed the bolt that I had was an 8.8 (grade 5) bolt. I searched the metric bolt bins and found a pair of 10.9 (grade 8) bolts that are a perfect fit. I bought two pairs. I've had troubles with that left motor mount before, and I wanted to have spares on hand. So the motor mount is now solidly bolted to the block, and squarely seated on the rubber mount. The Blue Mule is back in business and ready for the trail again. Which reminds me, I might want to replace that rubber mount sometime soon. It was looking a little cracked and old. Now as far as spectacular maintenance failures go for the FCT, I guess you'll just have to be there to find out what's gonna happen this year! Edited by m38mike - 08 July 2017 at 12:28pm |
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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48w/v6
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Posted: 08 July 2017 at 4:37pm |
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Can the other motor mount bolts be removed and the engine lowered? Would that help the situation? Be sure to check them also.
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m38mike
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Posted: 08 July 2017 at 5:08pm |
There are 4 motor mount bolts on the passenger side of the block. They hold not only the motor mount but the base for the alternator as well. All 4 of them are still tight in the block. I would have to remove the alternator to remove those 4 bolts to lower the block very much. As it turned out I didn't have to move it at all. |
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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48w/v6 wrote: