Smaller steering wheel

I'm going to set everything up in the mold and tack everything together,then I'll burn it all together and then check the fit prior to pouring the black epoxy. Should work ,at least it has in the past. I'll make sure steel doesn't kiss off on the mold surface. Thanks for asking, Sandusky

Update on Smaller Steering Wheel, I've completed the model. Please disregard the tapped holes on the outer ring ,they are for attachment so the model doesn't move while I develop the parting and laminate the mold. also note inner spline area is solid, this of course cores out the area for the  center hub in the production mold.I must aplogize for the rattle can paint job, but gloss black shows flaws the best. I'm looking for input !!!" Speak Now or" as they" Forever Hold your Peace"(I always thought that referenced a Hand Gun). I realize the spokes could taper down to original dim. where they contact the outer rim. but then as far as I'm concerned that could be done with a sanding board on an individual basis. Please let me know if you see other areas that need attention,I'd like to do this right the first time. Thanks, Sandusky

kevin

Update on steering wheel project, Mold has been built out of fiberglass for now, I didn't want to invest to much time or expense so I built a prototype mold that could be used as a pattern for cast aluminum in the future.I took Ralfs wheel and broke all the old plastic off the outside, shortened the spokes and took the outer ring to a shop and had them roll it to the proper dia..When I have time I'll weld the spokes to the outer ring and Check fit in the mold,the steel will have to be centered in the cavity ,then I'll pour a new epoxy wheel. I hope to have a couple of these for The Spring Reunion for show and tell(ralf I'll return your wheel although it will be smaller than when I got it) I'll post pics of the freshly cast epoxy wheel and then after finishing. these are going to require sanding and final paint. Please remember these are not production line pieces and each one has to be finished by hand! Thanks, Sandusky

Update on 15" Steering Wheel, Mold completed ,poured first wheel ,had some venting issues.  I went ahead and filed out the splines on Ralf's donor wheel, they look pretty good but I haven't tried it on column. I went and finished his wheel ,filling,sanding, priming and painting with a automotive acrylic enamel, with hardener. Painting on a windy day outside doesn't give the greatest quality of paint job ,but then I'm not much of a painter. I had about 5 or 6 hours of prep. before paint. Sooooo I've decided if any one wants one of these they'll be buying a freshly demolded part without any of my time for prep. I simply don't have the time or the desire. The epoxy I use is a Iron filled epoxy resin it's very hard and takes Bondo primer and paint very well.Pictured is the finished wheel and then one that has just been demolded (that's what I will be selling) to purchase I would require your donor wheel (this is exactly the wheel that you would be receiving after I cut down the spokes,have a new 3/8" outer ring rolled, welded to spokes and then poured with my epoxy. We also grind the center hub and add welds the spokes to the inner hub, beefing up orig. spot welds.The holes in the wheel are from 10/24 mach. screws used to locate the ring and spokes in the mold. All said and done with your donor wheel these will probably have to go for approx. $225.00 ea plus shipping. due to the epoxy they will weigh a couple of pounds more than the orig. I will have a total disclaimer of responsibility as far as injury or failure. My Lawyer friends demand me to play the game this way. If anyone is interested let me know, I'll bring these 2 to the Spring Meet in Ohio, (although my 2A isn't making the trip, I'll be bringing a bunch of pics. of parts I'll have for sale in the future. Thanks, Sandusky

My wheel has the orig. splines in it. I had my Son shatter the old plastic from my donor 2a then he heated it with a torch and popped it off,then crushed the remainder of the plastic in the jaws of a vice,after attaching the new ring we ground the metal to allow the epoxy to bond .I suppose you could have a Mach. Shop broach a key way,and put a Allen set screw to hold it in place. Thenagain the center of the wheel I'm producing is the same as the orig. Sandusky

 Much less expensive  than what I can produce.  And without the hassle. Looks like the slots in the black one could be filled in to appear more like a vintage wheel. Sandusky

One thing I wouldn't try is IF you have a steering wheel thats in unrestorable shape is remove the center broached piece and weld it into another steering wheel like I did. I Pressed the center broached piece into a steering wheel I had laying around and welded it. now it doesn't fit the column because the broached piece is to tight. I Couldn't get the nut cinched down all the way.

I think it was the press fit mainly, but it could of been how I welded it too I guess, I Did a continuous bead all the way around after I tack welded it in a few places. I was thinking next time I do this Ill do it with the broached piece bolted down on the column.