Sparky the Jeep |
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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So another big day is upon us tomorrow. Neighbor Bruce is coming over tomorrow to help me static time the engine. Added break in oil a couple of hours ago, and bought new batteries today, that's right plural, I am still at 24 volts. I am not ready to start it yet. I have changed to a 24 volt alternator so i need to change a couple of wires still hoping for official light off this weekend. Say a few prayers to the Jeep Gods for me.
Edited by 52 M38 - 11 June 2013 at 2:08am |
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Neighbor Bruce came over and after some persuading the distributor finally seated properly and the static timing is now set. I am still hoping for the first start of the engine on Saturday. I do have to get some battery terminal ends tomorrow after work, and a couple of "O" rings for the oil filter top and the base of the distributor. The fitting to put on the oil pressure sender, according to USPS, it will be here tomorrow. The last thing I need to do is make a new #10 wire into the gauge cluster, shouldn't take more than a minute or two.
Of course, I still don't have tie rods and a couple other steering bits to be road worthy, but running is a big deal, as it has been more than 10 years. I will try to figure out how to load a video of the first start. |
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Did some final wiring tonight. I have to say a special thanks to Wes Knettle from the Willys M Jeeps site. It was his wiring diagram I used to change to a 24V alternator. Sparky now turns over (I don't have the spark plugs in right now) the head lights, tail lights and gauges work. I can feel the life in Sparky again, he is no longer just a pile of parts, he is my childhood Jeep. I need to do some reading tomorrow on initial setting for the Carter YS carb, since I don't know where to start on it. Some of the wiring on the original equipment is scarey. The gauge lights, and blackout lights have some serious crumbling insulation. I left those unwired to avoid any serious setbacks. I am starting to feel my dad rooting me on from above the clouds. His Jeep is nearly ready.
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Tom in RI
Member Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: RI Status: Offline Points: 1124 |
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I have been watching your progress. Great stuff.
You might want to have a mechanical oil pressure gauge for initial startup along with your 24v gauge. The M38 oil pressure (especially the 120lb) gauge is a little goofy so the mechanical one will new double check. If you need bits and pieces of wiring harness PM me. I may have some from my rebuild that can help. |
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autolite
Member Joined: 15 Apr. 2006 Location: San Mateo, Cali Status: Offline Points: 788 |
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Your M-38 looks good. On the YS-637S carb, the float is set at 1/4 of an inch with the gasket removed. The idle mixture is 1`to 1/4 turns open.Make sure your diaphragms are good or they will leak and the crab will not run right. No other adjustments to be made. I know all about YS carbs for I own CJV-35/U #10676.Good luck.
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willys jeep
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autolite
Member Joined: 15 Apr. 2006 Location: San Mateo, Cali Status: Offline Points: 788 |
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My mistake. I ment to say 1 to 1 and 1/4 on the idle mixture adjustment. |
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willys jeep
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Tom in RI
Member Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: RI Status: Offline Points: 1124 |
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Really good point on the YS because if a diaphragm gets a pin hole you will have a ton of raw fuel dumping into the intake manifold. Seems like the red rubber ones from MWM have been holding up to the alcohol fuel.
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Thanks, I can't remember exactly what my float is set at, I did not rebend it when I rebuilt the carb since it ran before at the current setting.
I am not really concerned about the diaphrams since it is litterally newly rebuild. Everything was replaced except the float and one of the shaft seals that I couldn't get to fit right so I reinstalled the old one. I have to go get some fresh fuel today and prime the system in the morning. I have a massive Fram Fuel filter mounted on the firewall (which i may move the fender), I wasn't going to mess with contaminents in a brand new engine.
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Grrr. I think the coils are bad. Power goes into the distributor, but spark does not come out. The only thing I didn't replace was the coils. I will call for parts Monday morning. They will be here on Wednesday.
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TheRaven
Member Joined: 18 July 2012 Location: Norumbega Status: Offline Points: 263 |
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Might want to check the spark on the coils before dropping coin on new ones.
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Tom in RI
Member Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: RI Status: Offline Points: 1124 |
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on the M-jeeps website Wes K has put up some troubleshooting guides for the coilsin his photo album.
With an ohmmeter measure + to ground = should be about 1-5 ohms but there are reports of good coils at 12 ohms (seems high).
Measuring high tension to ground = 12K-20k ohms.
Also even if you replaced the condenser for the coil you might want to disconnect it for a test start to be sure its not a short/faulty.
NOTE if you have not put the original venting back in place for your M38 you still need to set up the vent tubes for the M-series distributor. The air flush does two things - cooling and removal of ozone from inside the sealed distributor. I have venting diagrams if you don't already have them.
If you have to replace the coil search out USA manufacture. Satisfaction with the Chicom coils is spotty. Edited by Tom in RI - 16 June 2013 at 3:00pm |
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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So I have spark jumping across the points. but still nothing at the plug. I have an Ohms meter from a neighbor, but have no idea how to use it. The needle moves but I am unsure which Ohms setting to use the X1, X10, or X100 and then what I am actually looking for as a reading on the needle sweep. I did find that I had a short jumping from "A" to "C" on the diagram above, which i corrected. I don't know if that tells us anything about the coils?
Edited by 52 M38 - 16 June 2013 at 9:44pm |
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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So when I use the Ohms Rx100 setting I get a reading of 75 when reading ground to "C". I get an off the scale zero for "A" to "B" with the wire disconnected as required above.
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Joe Friday
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 26 Dec. 2010 Location: Jeep Central Status: Offline Points: 3633 |
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When it died 10 years ago was it because of a loss of spark?
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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No, it was lack of engine rings.
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Here we are taken out of Sparky, cleaned and put back together, again. I am not seeing anything that sticks out. if I am missing anything let me know. I will throw it back in tomorrow afternoon and try again. I do have a new set of coils on the way just in case. I figured after the endless thousands that have been poured into the Jeep, why stop now.
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autolite
Member Joined: 15 Apr. 2006 Location: San Mateo, Cali Status: Offline Points: 788 |
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If your getting spark across the points, I would think it's a bad inner distributor cap. Your coil center looks different than my 6-volt version for it looks yours has a hole or rivet. Mine is solid brass or copper.
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willys jeep
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Bob W
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 08 Aug. 2005 Location: Monticello, NY Status: Offline Points: 1689 |
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Could that wire on the - side of the coil be touching the inside of the distributor top cover when it is in place?
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