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Overland View Drop Down
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    Posted: 17 June 2017 at 8:55pm
Hello all

I will be attempting to rebuild my gearboxes.  I'm creating this thread for the community to hopefully follow along, make sure I don't screw up too bad, and be a reference for people thinking of attempting the same.

So my rig sat in a garage for ~20 yrs.  This spring I got her up and running.  The gearboxes used to leave a little oil on the cardboard, but the more I drive her the more she spits.  Now it's to a ridiculous level.



Woof!  I took off the emergency brake set up and was greeted by this:



So up next is to drop the boxes.
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Overland View Drop Down
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First question:  on the rear out put yoke, it seems to me there should be an oil seal here





There wasn't one when I pulled it.

Also, how do I disconnect what I can only call a support arm on the drivers side of the boxes?  Sorry about the pic, greasy phone




Any tips/tricks/directions on dropping the tranny and TC would be greatly appreciated.


Edited by Overland - 18 June 2017 at 12:04am
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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There is a seal on the rear output yoke, it's in the transfer case. I can see it in pic #2.
Your last picture is worthless. If you're talking about the engine stay cable, just unscrew the nut(s) on the end opposite the ball, and remove it. If you're talking about the parking brake lever, just remove the cotter pin and clevis pin. It's all covered in the SERVICE MANUAL for UNIVERSAL Jeep VEHICLES. You DO have a Universal Jeep Service Manual, don't you?   BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

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In the second picture, you should have removed the drain plug in the bottom of the transfer case pan. If you had, there wouldn't have been oil coming out of the rear of the transfer case when you removed the companion flange with the e-brake drum.

You ask about a rear seal...it's there clearly in the housing in the second picture. The seal shouldn't come out with the companion flange when you remove the flange.

The support arm you refer to is the clutch control lever and tube. To remove it, take loose the clevis pin and yoke that the clutch cable connects to the control tube and move the cable out of the way. On the end of the control tube that faces the frame, there is a bracket bolted to the frame with two bolts. Remove the bolts and pull the tube and bracket towards the front of the Jeep and turn the bracket 90 degrees. This should allow enough room for the control tube to slide off the pivot ball that is on the transfer case.
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From the looks of how clean the emergency brake area is it doesn't look like it has been leaking there. Where did you notice the most accumulation of oil at?

     Jim
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Originally posted by WeeWilly WeeWilly wrote:

From the looks of how clean the emergency brake area is it doesn't look like it has been leaking there. Where did you notice the most accumulation of oil at?

     Jim


I cleaned the e-brake out a few weeks ago.  It's possible I didn't torque the castle nut enough, but I want to go through with the rebuild anyway for the experience and because I love wrenching.  It pops out of 2nd gear all the time, a common problem as I've read.  It was leaking from behind the backing plate for the ebrake the most.  The front yoke and the pan for the TC also leak, but slow enough that I could live with it before.
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I fixed the above picture. 

It was the clutch control lever.  I got that removed.  I'm now following the Univ. manual in order, I tried to jump the gun before.  I'm sure that's the first of a bevy of ridiculous errors on my part. 

Starting at the top I removed the shifter cover



Then the shift tower



I removed what I believe is the set screw from the transfer case shift lever pivot pin.



Now it says to remove the pivot pin.  I can imagine this screw goes up against the pin, which the TC levers rotate around at their base.  How do I remove the pivot pin?



That thing on the end looks like a zerk fitting to me.  Does that need to go to get at the pin?
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No if you only want to remove the shifters.  Yes, if you want to fully remove the pin.
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Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

There is a seal on the rear output yoke, it's in the transfer case. I can see it in pic #2.
Your last picture is worthless. If you're talking about the engine stay cable, just unscrew the nut(s) on the end opposite the ball, and remove it. If you're talking about the parking brake lever, just remove the cotter pin and clevis pin. It's all covered in the SERVICE MANUAL for UNIVERSAL Jeep VEHICLES. You DO have a Universal Jeep Service Manual, don't you?   BW
 
I have found that a small transmission jack is invaluable in this task.
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Originally posted by cal.bar cal.bar wrote:

I have found that a small transmission jack is invaluable in this task.


Hindsight says truer words have never been spoken
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Got the boxes out





I never was able to remove the transfer case shift lever pivot pin.  In the following picture, is it the etched circle?  A bit hard to see but it's there.



I pounded on this with a punch and drift a bit, no movement.  I ended up chopping the tub some, but I don't feel all that bad because once I get to fixing the body that will be the least of my problems.


Edited by Overland - 21 June 2017 at 1:34am
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So as far as the Xmember goes, the bottom was bashed eons ago most likely, and it turned out after removing the frame bolts, it seemed to move pretty freely without unscrewing the bolts in the middle.  it pried off easily, but I believe there are bolts tucked under the carnage



On the top of the Xmember, between it and the boxes, is there supposed to be a big rubber spacer?  That's what it looks like to me.




I believe this thing is totally salvageable, any thoughts to the contrary?



Edited by Overland - 21 June 2017 at 1:36am
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The crossmember may be salvageable with some heavy equipment and/or a LOT of patience.  Crossmembers are available, probably for less than you think.  There should be a 2-piece mount there.  Ron Fitzpatrick has 'em:

https://www.vintagejeeps.com/p-1944-mount-transfercase-large-rubber-snubber-634758.aspx

and

https://www.vintagejeeps.com/p-702-mount-transfercase-small-rubber-snubber-634759.aspx
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Hi OP, 
I'm rebuilding my T90 right now, I don't have enough good things to say about the Rick Stivers and ShnitznWhatever videos.  

Not sure if Rick is here or nearby but I personally would like to thank him and buy him drink for the effort he has put into these videos and the knowledge he has shared.  Smile
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When you get to reassembly.  The Rick S guide is lacking a crucial measurement.  One of the experts here (Carlsjeep?) Points out that you must measure the run out between the input shaft and output shaft.  It need 0.015 to 0.020" of clearance.  Too much and it will pop out of second.  I had to remove my transmission and make an adjustment.  Just reinstalling now.  What a pain!  Make sure you do this measurment and shim the rear bearing spacer if necessary.  I had to add .040" of shim!  Fingers crossed that it's fixed.



Edited by pjensen641 - 21 June 2017 at 5:53pm
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Originally posted by pjensen641 pjensen641 wrote:

When you get to reassembly.  The Rick S guide is lacking a crucial measurement.  One of the experts here (Carlsjeep?) Points out that you must measure the run out between the input shaft and output shaft.  It need 0.015 to 0.020" of clearance.  Too much and it will pop out of second.  I had to remove my transmission and make an adjustment.  Just reinstalling now.  What a pain!  Make sure you do this measurment and shim the rear bearing spacer if necessary.  I had to add .040" of shim!  Fingers crossed that it's fixed.

 
EXACTLY!!!! THIS IS IMPORTANT!!.  I rebuilt my T90 the FIRST time watching his video, but didn't know about the endplay measurement and it would slip right out of 2nd gear on even the slightest decline.  Wound up having to take it apart again and add a spacer.
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Originally posted by PAUL PAUL wrote:

Hi OP, 
I'm rebuilding my T90 right now, I don't have enough good things to say about the Rick Stivers and ShnitznWhatever videos.  

Not sure if Rick is here or nearby but I personally would like to thank him and buy him drink for the effort he has put into these videos and the knowledge he has shared.  Smile
 
LOL LOLLOL
 
the measurement comes from the rear output bearing sandwiching the spacer to the mainshaft.
I can see if I can put an annotation in the video. 
 
or I still have the fresh trans on the table Geek to film?


Edited by Speedy - 21 June 2017 at 7:56pm
- Mike
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Yes, I was popping out of 2nd on decel.  I removed my transmission and used a brass drift to hammer the rear main shaft forward in small increments until I felt significant drag on the syncros.  Here is the space that opened up between the spacer and shaft shoulder.



Then I measured with feeler gauges...



57 thousandths....WAY too much.




I had purchased some shims from McMaster.  They are metric, but match the rear bearing ID.  Two different sizes so that I could make coarse and fine adjustments.



Here is the shim pack I added.  40 thou.  That should bring my new clearance to 57-40=17 thou.


My spacer measures 0.279.  It should be 0.296 according to Joe Friday.  So that right there is 17 thou.  I'd guess my case is a little long or something, which would make the rest of the 40 thou I needed up.





After installation with a new USA MADE SKF "Explorer" bearing, I made sure that there was no syncro binding.

I'm buttoning everything back up now, so I will report my test drive results. 

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/t90-bearing-spacer-643621-question_topic31200_post283821.html#283821

As a side note: I remember when tearing the thing down the first time that there was a odd looking spacer in this same exact spot.  Not being in the parts diagram I said....well, all new parts are going in and I shouldn't need this band-aide.  Then I remember a conversation I had with my Grandpa (whom I inherited the Jeep from) and he mentioned having to "fix" 2nd gear one time.  I wish he was still around Cry


Edited by pjensen641 - 21 June 2017 at 8:35pm
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