Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Tech Questions and Answers
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - D18 transfer case project
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

D18 transfer case project

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123 8>
Author
Message Reverse Sort Order
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1385
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D18 transfer case project
    Posted: 23 Jan. 2019 at 12:23pm
Thanks guys.  There are good, thorough "how to" videos out there.  Since I didn't know "how to", I didn't even tryLOL.  I just wanted to share my learning experiences - it was fun.  BTW, I added one last night on mating the T90 to the D18.


1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 1379
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2019 at 11:57am
I also watched the videos and while not exhaustive on the topic I thought Steve does an excellent job.
Clear, concise, no stuttering, no repeats, and technical terms used are all spot on. 

And the TC itself actually looks pro rebuilt.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1385
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2019 at 11:02am
Originally posted by Floater Floater wrote:

Hi Steve - 

I just watched your last three videos on your D18. EXCELLENT!  Thumbs Up 

Thanks for taking the time to do this. I was impressed by how thoroughly you covered the trouble spots in the assembly (like that locking plate gasket) and by how clean your shop is (I'm OCD myself).

Thanks again,
Reg

Thanks - glad you found them helpful.  For experienced TC builders, much of what I point out is common knowledge.  But for newbies like me and others to follow, those little things can bite you in the butt.  So that's why I thought it would be helpful to point them out.

Oh and by the way, my shop is not always clean.  Its a mess when I'm working, I just clean it up before making the videosLOL
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
Floater View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 19 Mar. 2017
Location: Plattsburgh, NY
Status: Offline
Points: 8
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Floater Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan. 2019 at 10:03am
Hi Steve - 

I just watched your last three videos on your D18. EXCELLENT!  Thumbs Up 

Thanks for taking the time to do this. I was impressed by how thoroughly you covered the trouble spots in the assembly (like that locking plate gasket) and by how clean your shop is (I'm OCD myself).

Thanks again,
Reg
M201
Plattsburgh, NY
Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1385
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan. 2019 at 2:40pm
It is done! A friend came over today and helped me torque the shaft nuts. After that I buttoned everthing up. Its ready to mate to its brother the T90. Thanks Oldtime and everyone else who offered tips and advice, and to Bob for the rear bearing cap. Without all your help, I wouldn't have got this done.



I made a series of videos as I went that captured my experiences along the way. I put the up on youtube.
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 1379
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2019 at 12:33pm
Right .........anymore my brain malfunctions and I have to review my own threads to see what I might already know.

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1385
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2019 at 12:04pm
Nice to have OEM parts!

With all I've learned about the D18 over the last month, and making or buying all the needed tools, I'm sure the next one will go quicker. So long as I remember everthing. Thats one reason for this thread - future referenceBig smile
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 1379
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2019 at 10:38am
Yeah That's a quality looking "I" shaft. 
Great idea on the chamfering.
I've been using OEM NOS shafts and also some AA tapered shafts.

I already got my latest TC all finished except for the companion flange.
Does not take long when all parts are ready to go.
This one ended up with .004 output shaft play.

Because I have a late companion flange the parking brake drum was .15" from seating the shoes where they need to run inside the drum.
Opposite to your situation my parking drum was not pulling in far enough.
I may end up putting the yoke on a machine lathe to shorten the flange down to the later specs.  

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1385
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2019 at 8:35pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Looks like I'm needing the shorter companion flange for my higher ratio speedo gears. 
Ha Ha Ha !

Oh noooo - not really surprising!

My Novak intermediate shaft arrived and I got it installed tonight. I wasn't sure if I could get the O-rings in without damage. I carefully chamfered the entrance side of each hole with a needle file, followed by some 320 grit wrapped around a stick to polish the chamfer. 



I greased them up and slipped the shaft in. To my surprise, the O-rings slipped right in without any problem. Whew - that was a relief! 



Tomorrow I'll finish assembly.
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 1379
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2019 at 6:43pm
Looks like I'm needing the shorter companion flange for my higher ratio speedo gears. 
Ha Ha Ha !
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1385
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2019 at 1:10pm
Well, fortunately I went into this as a learning project.  I'm in no real hurry to complete it, so I can take my time to learn from my mistakes and double check everything as I go.  If I do another one, I expect it will go a bit easier.  Experience is a good teacher!
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 1379
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2019 at 11:28am
No Jeff ...
You have to get payed to be employed ..... Ha Ha !
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
jeeper50 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 01 Mar. 2008
Location: Georgia
Status: Offline
Points: 1707
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeeper50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2019 at 11:09am
He is currently doing just that... as we all do!!  Great thread!
'53 Cj3B 4 cyl D25/D44 lockrights,11" brakes, Belleview ol skool winch.


Texan at heart,GA by paycheck

Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 1379
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2019 at 10:58am
You obviously have an excellent eye for quality control.
You shoulda worked for WO.. Ha ha ha !
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1385
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2019 at 6:43pm
After comparing the position of the drum to the backing plate on this one and the one in the jeep, I determined the drum was too far in. This also made me be concerned that the seal was riding too far up the companion yoke. So I pulled the drum again and measured the distance from the spacer to the outer rubber seal lip. It was .579". Then I measured .579" from the inner end of the splined yoke to see where the lip made contact. It was just barely on the repair sleeve. Clearly the yoke was still seating too deep. 

I had another .080" thick machine bushing, so I reduced the measured position to .499" from the end of the yoke. That put the outer and inner seal lips well within the repair sleeve area. So I put this bushing in the lathe and reduced its OD to 1.5" (same as the other one). Then installed it and the drum. Much better!  The seal rides in the right place and the drum no longer rubs the backing plate. So adding .160" of spacers seemed to be just right.

I got an email from Novak today that they shipped the intermediate shaft - yay. I should have it in a couple days.  As I was looking at the TC tonight, it dawned on me that I'll have to remove the drum and backing plate yet again to install the intermediate shaft Ouch

Its all good, I'm getting a lot if experience!
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1385
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2019 at 2:50pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Yeah I thought that you had a lathe.
I was wondering why you did not just go ahead and make a spacer instead of ordering the D20 shims.
I estimate most any spacer of reasonable thickness could be used.
I could measure the exact length difference between the early and late companion flanges if it matters.
It's somewhere very close to  .1875"difference.


Ken - would you mind measuring the splined length on the two companion flanges?  I'd like to confirm which I have and it would be helpful for others reading this thread in the future.  Thanks 
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
ndnchf View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 2

Joined: 22 Sep. 2017
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 1385
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2019 at 8:02pm
Well, I thought I could get the shims in a couple days and I didn't have any suitable stock handy, so I ordered them. But today I realized they werent coming right away, so I checked the local hardware store and found these. In hindsight, I should have just done it myself in the first place. Oh well, I always seem to do things the hard wayOuch
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 1379
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan. 2019 at 7:55pm
Yeah I thought that you had a lathe.
I was wondering why you did not just go ahead and make a spacer instead of ordering the D20 shims.
I estimate most any spacer of reasonable thickness could be used.
I could measure the exact length difference between the early and late companion flanges if it matters.
It's somewhere very close to  .1875"difference.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123 8>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.