W-O Throttle Body Wear |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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Posted: 24 Dec. 2015 at 1:05am |
I know we have some machinists among us. I know what I want to do, I'm just not sure how to go about it. I hope I can get some help.
On the Carter W-O used on the CJ2-A, there's a lever that pivots on the boss on the right in the picture. The linkage connects to this "idler" lever, and the lever drives the throttle lever on the shaft thru a screw. Every CJ2-A W-O I've seen has a lot of wear on this boss, in the hole in the lever where it pivots around this boss, and in the hole where the screw makes contact. This one has about 3/4" of lost motion between the two levers because of this wear. In this picture you can see the wear on the boss. The un-worn portion of the boss isn't exactly round, it measures .530" in diameter one way, and .540" at 90* to the first measurement. In the worn area, the boss measures .513", and the hole in the lever, measured across the worst-worn part, is .600". That's a lot of play. What I've got in mind to do, is to Machine the OD of the boss down to the worn area, and put a sleeve on the OD to bring it back up to .600" or slightly less, and ream the hole in the lever to make it round again, at .600" or slightly more. Now. I'm not a machinist, though I'd kind of like to be. That kind of work has always fascinated me. When I worked at the Chevrolet dealer, we had an old, small lathe that was meant mostly for turning starter and generator armatures, and I did some things with that and the brake drum lathe that they were neither one intended for. I'm thinking of buying a small lathe or a small mill or one of those combo machines so I can do some of this kind of stuff. My question is, how would an experienced machinist go about this, and would it be best done on a lathe or a mill? Or, has anyone done this before and would like to do some more? BW |
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11173 |
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...... If it were me, I'd do it in a Bridgeport.
Phase 1: 1. Put drill chuck in mill spindle 2. Install a mill vice on mill table. 3. Chuck up a 5/16" diameter rod in the drill chuck. The rod needs to be long enough to pass through The throttle body butterfly shaft hole. 4. Slide the throttle body over the 5/16" rod this aligns the throttle body with the drill spindle and makes the two gasket surfaces parallel 5. Maneuver the mill table so that the static vice jaw is aligned with the throttle body gasket surface. 6. Clamp the throttle body in the vice. Now the "butterfly shaft holes are in alignment with the drill chuck That's what I do to align a throttle body to bore out the shaft hole for bushings Phase 2: Now if you want, you can machine the boss with a boring bar that's turned around to machine the OD for a sleeve but if it were me, I would drill and ream down as far as I could, taking the entire boss off and leaving a pocket that a new piece could be pressed into. 1. Drill through and ream to .625. You may not want to go all the way through to the throat of the throttle body but if you do, it would still probably work ok. 2. Press a .626 OD bushing into the reamed hole. The bushing needs to be tall enough to stick out of the hole as it will serve as the new boss. The ID of the bushing needs to be something that can be finish reamed to 5/16". 3. Ream the ID of the bushing to 5/16" 4. Face off the bushing with an end mill to the correct height. 5. Debur. I would do it with bronze but you may want to use some other metal. I'm off for the holidays but if I can, I'll take a throttle body to work and demonstrate with pics. Edit: spelling errors Edit: ..... oh and you have to ream the leaver to 5/8" as well. Edited by jpet - 24 Dec. 2015 at 4:20am |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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Thanks, Jeff, I can see it as well as if I were watching you do it. And that's one of the ways I had in mind to do it. There's plenty of "meat" there to support the new bushing, and depth enough so that the bushing could be pressed in farther than it would stick out, without going clear thru into the throat. This method would kill two birds, because the shaft bushing would be
Now, to see if I can find an appropriate machine that I can beg, borrow, steal, buy, or hire to do the job. Neighbor across the street, a retired machinist, has a Bridgeport and likes to tinker. I'd like to do it myself if it would be possible on a smaller, less expensive machine. I have several carbs to do, and some other projects in mind that require some light machine work. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11173 |
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If you do it the way I described, it can be done in a drill press. Just use the 5/16" rod to align the throttle body, and vice. Once it's aligned, clamp the vice to the table. The only thing you wouldn't be able to do is face off the bushing so you would need to calculate your depth so that when you press the bushing in, it bottoms out at the correct location.
Use an end mill to put a counterbore in the throttle body or you could grind a drill bit with a square shoulder. |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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